This brand you've never heard of reminds me of Richard Mille – it will change your impression of Chinese watchmaking

Every year, as the doors of Watches and Wonders fly open, you've got a pretty good idea of what to expect. You'll wander past a ten-foot tall version of A Lange and Söhne's latest launch, through alleys laden with Veuve Cliquot bottles and onto the infamous block of Rolex, Tudor and Patek Philippe.

Still, beyond the usual suspects, 2026 introduced a new suite of brands exhibiting for the very first time. One of those was Behrens, and while it might not be a name you're familiar with right now, it probably should be.

The brand was founded in 2012, but didn't release its first piece for a further six years. Since then, things have taken a markedly more experimental turn, with in-house movements and unique designs.

At the event, the brand unveiled a new model called the Pupil Ultralight 8G. That suffix isn't just for show, either – the watch weighs just eight grams.

That is every bit as remarkable – bordering on ridiculous – as you'd expect. There's simply no discernible weight there, and you very quickly forget you're wearing anything at all.

As is something of a signature for the brand, the entire movement is open-worked across the dial, making it the perfect choice for anyone who loves watches for the beauty of the mechanism. Limited to just nine pieces in each of two case variants, the model is priced at US$33,800 (approx. £24,990 / €28,720 / AU$47,095).

It's not the only model which impressed. Back at Geneva Watch Days, the brand collaborated with independent watchmaker, Vianney Halter, to produce the KWH.

For me, that's one of the most impressive watches I've laid eyes on in a long time. Similar to the one listed above, the model showcases every part of its movement, for a really industrial look.

That's set within a more traditional rectangular case, which was inspired by vintage electricity meters and feels similar to the size and shape of an Apple Watch. You'll find the minutes indicator on the bottom left, with a day/night indicator and a power reserve indicator on the left flank.

A tourbillon at the base reads the seconds, while the hour is indicated by a chain mechanism, which revolves around the outer edge of the dial. It's one of the most unique methods of displaying the time I've ever seen, and it makes for an end product which feels considered.

It wears beautifully, too, which is exactly what you want from a piece like this. Priced at US$30,800 (approx. £22,780 / €26,180 / AU$42,900), it's still not exactly cheap, but it will at least be made in 90 pieces, so there's more chance of snagging one.

All in all, I was thoroughly impressed with every piece I tried from the brand. There's a growing market of Chinese watch brands – including those like Atelier Wen and CIGA Design – which are proving the region is a force to be reckoned with. Behrens is destined to be a large part of that.