Hermès just changed one of my core watch opinions

Prior to attending Watches and Wonders 2026, if you'd asked me how I felt about pocket watches, I'd have replied with disdain. Such models seem to be growing in popularity, with models from brand's as diverse as Parmigiani Fleurier and Christopher Ward.

At the show in Geneva, Hermès also got in on the action. The brand unveiled the Slim d'Hermès Pocket Roaaaaar, a piece limited to just three pieces in each of two colourways.

The 45mm case is crafted from white gold, and features the iconic roaring lion emblem on the top panel, crafted from hundreds of tiny pieces of wood. Beneath that sits an enamel dial, with a chevron pattern which exudes elegance without being over the top.

Inside, the watch is powered by the brand's automatic H1950 calibre. And in place of a traditional, metal pocket chain, the piece here features an alligator leather cord which is colour matched to the dial – either blue or green.

What's most alarming for me is that I really don't hate this. In the past, my view of pocket watches has been very dim indeed. While once a tool of elite and powerful people, these days using one appears more like an act of cosplay sophistication.

I can't quite put my finger on why this one is different. Maybe it's the artistic dial cover, which presents it more wholly as a medium of art. Or maybe it's the slim and sleek case design, which feels more contemporary than other models out there.

Either way, it's not likely to be something I can add to my collection. Limited to just three pieces per colour and with the 'price on request' label, I'm betting these are going to be incredibly hard to come by.

Still, I think it's a promising change. If pocket watches really must come back into the mainstream, I hope manufacturers take inspiration from pieces like this, rather than harking back to the past.