This watch brand is older than Rolex and Grand Seiko – and it's back from the dead after decades

If you're a fan of watches, you'll probably be aware of brands like Rolex, Omega and Grand Seiko. But unless you're already deeply into the hobby, you might not know about Universal Genève.

The brand was a major player in the industry across most of the 1900s, before falling prey to the quartz crisis in the 1970s and eventually falling out of favour. Now – under the tutelage of Breitling – the brand is back with a vengeance.

The modern company exists on many different levels, with a range of standard models coupled with limited edition collections and haute horologie offerings. It's a brand which looks set to battle everything from the Rolex Daytona and the Cartier Tank to luxury jewellery pieces from brands like Van Cleef & Arpels and Jacob & Co.

Universal Genève in 2026: explained

There's an awful lot to unpack here, so I'm going to do my best to keep this brief. The modern company splits its offerings into four distinct categories.

The main one for most people is the Prêt-à-Porter collection. That's the 'standard' range, and is offered across the different models the brand has in its catalogue.

After that, we have the Capsule collections. These are slightly more artisanal than the standard models, without branching into the world of haute horologie. Expect unique colour combinations and decorations, all in time-limited quantities.

Beyond that, we have the Couture Creations, which is where we start to drift into the world of jewellery and bespoke, artisanal pieces. These are developed with exceptional craftspeople, and are designed to offer watches as a medium of pure artistry.

Last, but certainly not least, are the Signature timepieces. These are time-limited pieces designed as reinterpretations of some of the brand's most iconic watches, albeit with some more contemporary refinements.

Across the board, the brand is utilising in-house movements – something the Universal Genève of old was famed for – and producing pieces in varying combinations of steel and gold.

Universal Genève Polerouter

Up first is arguably the brand's most 'simple' piece. The Polerouter is a perfect example of a go-anywhere, do-anything watch, which should make it a well loved addition to the market.

Sitting within a 39mm case and powered by the brand's calibre UG-110 movement, this one sits an impressive 9.5mm tall, while still offering 100m of water resistance. It's the perfect option for those seeking a sleek and stylish everyday watch with enough about it to remain rugged.

My pick of the bunch is the 18k rose gold model with the brown dial, which also comes on a matching brown alligator leather strap. Priced from CHF 14,000 (approx. £13,250 / €15,200 / US$17,750 / AU$25,250) to CHF 32,000 (approx. £30,200 / €34,750 / US$40,600 / AU$57,650) in the standard collection, this is going to offer stiff competition for pieces like the Rolex Datejust.

Universal Genève Compax

This chronograph might be the brand's most iconic model from days gone by, so it's fantastic to see it reimagined here. The tri-compax design is the same as you'd expect to find on watches like the Rolex Daytona, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport and the Omega Speedmaster.

Again, this one uses an in-house movement – the UG-200 – which offers 72 hours of power reserve with a 4Hz beat rate. Cased in either steel or gold, the model sits 39.5mm across and just 12.45mm tall, which is seriously impressive in automatic chronograph terms.

Prices start at CHF 15,500 (approx. £14,650 / €16,820 / US$19,650 / AU$27,950) and top out at CHF 39,900 (approx. £37,670 / €43,300 / US$50,600 / AU$71,850) for the capsule collection models. Those are presented in a range of lovely pastel hues.

Universal Genève Cabriolet

One of the first iconic references from the brand was lovingly known as the Cabriolet, and featured a case which could flip over for protection. It's not dissimilar to the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, and it's another model which is back as part of the new collection.

That features a manual winding movement, which offers 72 hours of power reserve and runs at 3Hz. The case still flips over, for protection, and manages to sit a mere 8mm thick. At 24.2mm x 45mm, it should wear like a dream, and offer another option for anyone considering a Reverso or a Tank.

Special note here for the capsule edition, which features a miniaturised painting from the works of renowned artist, Tamara De Lempicka, on the rear. It's exquisite, and only 15 will be made.

Priced from CHF 9,800 (approx. £9,250 / €10,650 / US$12,400 / AU$17,650) for the most affordable model, all the way up to CHF 51,000 (approx. £48,000 / €55,350 / US$64,650 / AU$91,850) for the capsule edition, I'm certain this one is going to be popular.

Universal Genève Disco Mini

Last, but not least, comes the Disco Mini. This is a smaller reference from the brand, aimed at a female audience, and designed with the brand's couture and costume jewellery as inspiration.

That features a 28mm case crafted from 18k white or rose gold, and makes use of a quartz movement. All come with a white mother-of-pearl dial, with options of a bangle or an alligator leather strap.

The capsule edition takes the case size up to 32mm and surrounds it with a rosette of diamonds totalling 4.4 carats. The dial is switched to a blue mother-of-pearl, to match the white gold and diamond aesthetic.

Priced from CHF 16,000 (approx. £15,100 / €17,350 / US$20,275 / AU$28,800) this one should offer something different for those seeking elegance.

We're only just scratching the surface of what's on offer here, but it's clear that this is a major moment for the watch industry. Make no mistake – this is the return of a tour de force and will cause ripples across the industry. Personally, I can't wait to see what unfolds.