Why 90s running style still looks better than today’s

Running gear has never been better than now in 2026. Super shoes are lighter than a smartphone, foams are bouncier and more responsive, fabrics breathe, wick and regulate body temperature in ways that would have seemed impossible a few decades ago.

And yet, for all that progress, running these days can feel strangely… complicated. As someone who reviews running gear for a living, lately I keep thinking about how nice and, more importantly, simple late-80s and early-90s running fashion was.

I picked up running in my teenage years in the late 90s, and my earliest running memories feature people jogging in ridiculously short, colourful shorts, stripy tank tops, and, sometimes, headbands. You knew what running gear looked like, and, deep down, you knew you didn’t need to understand it.

A pair of short-shorts or loose joggers, a sweatshirt or vest depending on the weather, proper sports socks, and a pair of trainers that you ran in until they were finished. Maybe a headband or wristband if things got sweaty. That was it. Can we bring back these simpler times?

Back to the past

My longing for what I perceive as simpler times didn't happen in a vacuum, of course. Like millions of other people, I subscribed to the whole Stranger Things phenomenon, and let 80s nostalgia sweep all over me in recent months (team Steve all the way).

Even before then, I noticed that I gravitate towards bold colours and classic 80s and 90s silhouettes when browsing clothes. I recently went on a bit of clothes buying binge when I discovered Abercrombie & Fitch's Archive Collection, full of throwback models.

I also rekindled my love for Denim, thanks to Levi's January Sale, which included a Toy Story-themed pair of jeans, my favourite animated movie from the 90s. Since then, I bought some Carpenter Denim Trousers from Vans (still available at Route One), and a denim sherpa jacket from Levi's, just like my dad had (well, as close as it gets).

Nike helped me push this all into running with its excellent Structure Plus trainers, which I have been using loads in the last couple of months. It's a classic example of modern running shoes made look retro, and I love them.

When running gear was obvious

Late-80s and early-90s running fashion was unapologetically visible. Colours were bold (purples, red, greens, oranges), logos were loud (remember those Reebok Vectors on windbreakers and track tops?), and silhouettes were relaxed, almost boxy. You looked like you were going for a run, and that was the whole point.

Brands like Nike, Adidas and Reebok dominated both the track and the street, while performance-focused names like ASICS, New Balance and Saucony built credibility with runners who cared more about miles than marketing. (Some of the latter are still trying to get out of that box, now that running and fashion are ever so entwined.)

Footwear was where technology lived, and even then, it was easy to understand. The Nike Air Max 90 made cushioning visible, while Adidas’ ZX series introduced the Torsion System without asking runners to decode it. ASICS GEL Lyte, which was introduced in 1987, did exactly what it said on the tin: making your runs softer and more comfortable.

The shoes designed for running in the 80s and 90s are now returning as lifestyle products. The tech doesn't quite hold up to modern performance trainers, even though at the time it represented cutting-edge innovation. Again, times were simpler.

I keep remembering what Nike’s Chief Design Officer, Martin Lotti, said when I interviewed a year and a half ago. Pointing out the shoes on display (the ever-so-wonderful Volt series), he said they were the pinnacle of design at the time, and they thought they couldn't create anything faster. Then came the Vaporfly and Alphafly series, shattering everything that came before them.

The sweet spot before everything became “technical”

The late 80s/early 90s era matters because it sits right on the edge of modern performance gear. Moisture-wicking fabrics were emerging, but hadn’t yet taken over. Cotton sweatshirts and nylon shells were still common, and yes, they weren’t great at regulating temperature. They soaked up sweat, trapped heat, and occasionally felt like running in a crisp packet.

Nobody pretended their kit was optimised. Well, maybe some did, but only to a much lower percentage than it is today. Shaving 3 grams from one trainer iteration to the other didn't quite make headlines, nor did an addition of a sweat-wicking fabric that improves ventilation by 7 per cent.

Today, apparel has become a system of micro-choices. Do you want compression, bonded seams, mapped ventilation, or weather-specific layering strategies? None of this is inherently bad, but it creates unnecessary complexity. It can feel like you need to live and breathe running culture to belong.

The nostalgia problem (and why that’s okay)

I'll be the first one to admit that some of this affection is for a version of running many of us never actually experienced. Running in cotton isn’t fun, and plastic-heavy synthetics don't breathe. Since the late 80s/early 90s, injury prevention and comfort have improved massively, and nobody is seriously arguing we should abandon modern materials.

But the nostalgia I feel isn't about accuracy. I don't want to feel sweaty and gross after a run. Late-80s and early-90s running feels appealing to me because it didn’t demand expertise. No one logged their runs on a training platform or used 'drop' or 'GPS accuracy' when they were asked about their latest session.

Very importantly, it was all about looking good. None of this minimalist nonsense that's been going on for way too long. Running in those days felt like a bit of rebellion, doing something that wasn't massively popular. Seeing another runner was a genuine (and nice) surprise, and not common. And you could spot a runner from miles away, thanks to their swanky outfits.

Why the silhouettes deserve a comeback

Lucky for us, some brands are working on providing new gear that looks old but feels fresh. Labels like Tracksmith, albeit a bit understated, lean into retro silhouettes with modern merino blends.

One of my fave running companies, Bandit Running, borrows heavily from early-90s track aesthetics while quietly delivering top-tier performance. British heritage brands, such as Ronhill and Reebok, also list running shoe models with origins dating back.

Even big brands are revisiting looser shorts, boxier tops, visible socks and throwback colour blocking. Just look at Adidas' Santigo Track Top or Nike's LD-1000 trainers.

Late-80s and early-90s running fashion reminds us that you don’t need to know everything to be a runner. Sometimes, the best gear is the stuff that lets you forget about it entirely. Maybe we don’t need to bring back the materials, but the mindset, the silhouettes, and the simplicity? That’s worth running with.