Tissot Seastar Chronograph has scaled down to a perfect new size

Watches are getting smaller. No longer is a 42 mm case diameter the norm for a men’s dive watch, as instead we’re seeing evermore timepieces dip below the 40mm barrier.

This is a good thing. Watches don’t need to be gendered, for starters, and by shrinking to 40mm or even 38 or 36mm, watches that once looked and felt unwieldy are now far more subtle. Call it modesty; call it a nod to the on-trend vintage aesthetic. Whatever’s caused it, we’re grateful for the extra choice downsizing has unlocked.

The latest to follow the trend is the Tissot Seastar Chronograph, which has just launched in a new 38mm form. Having debuted back in the early-1950s, the Seastar is an iconic dive watch, complete with unidirectional rotating bezel, 300 metres of water resistance, a screw-down crown and sapphire crystal, and a high-contrast dial and hand design for enhanced legibility.

The latest model continues to tick all of these boxes, but should now appeal to even more customers, especially those with smaller wrists. There are six new models in all, each with the same case diameter and quartz chronograph movement, but with plenty of design variation.

There are two stealthy, all-black models (available on a rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet), an all-white model on rubber, a steel variant with a black dial and bezel, and a similar steel variant but with gold details on the bracelet, bezel, buttons and crown.

The last model is the most interesting – and eye-catching, since it pairs a turquoise dial, bezel and rubber strap with a stainless steel case with carnation gold PVD coating. The same coating is applied to the buttons and crown, as well as the hands and the outer edge of the bezel. It’s a lovely piece that stands out well, but isn’t too gaudy thanks to the compact case size.

All of the new 38 mm models have a date window at the four o’clock position and three sub-dials for the chronograph movement. Priced at £535 and available now, it’s my pick of the bunch.