Hello and welcome to T3's live blog of Watches and Wonders 2022, bringing you all of the latest news and releases from the biggest watch show of the year so far.
In a move that is sure to delight watch fans, all of the biggest brands have unveiled their latest creations at the Geneva show, with Rolex, Tudor, Grand Seiko, TAG Heuer, Zenith all taking part – just to name a few!
The show took place over several days, during which all brands hosted a series of events and presentations, supported by smaller, physical events in key markets.
T3 stayed up-to-date with the events and collected all of the new releases in one place. These are the best new watches at Watches and Wonders 2022:
Rolex GMT Master II - Green and Black
Okay, let's kick off with a bg one…
The GMT-Master was made for airborne adventure and is now the watch of choice for travellers around the world.
Rolex has unveiled this novel, unexpected version of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, with the crown and crown guard are on the left side of the watch case.
The date aperture and the Cyclops lens have also moved and appear at 9 o’clock. This required several technical adjustments in terms of the movement and the Superlative Chronometer certification, for which the protocol, as well as some of the final tests, had to be adapted.
The new GMT-Master II is made from Oystersteel and fitted with an Oyster bracelet, this watch features a two-colour monobloc Cerachrom bezel insert in green and black ceramic – a colour pairing never before seen on this model.
The new version of the GMT-Master II is equipped with calibre 3285, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, enabling it to display the hours, minutes, seconds and date, as well as an additional time zone in 24-hour format.
Rolex Air King
Let's stick with Rolex for now. Here is an updated version of the Air King!
The watch features a completely redesigned case with a crown guard and straight sides so it closer resembles the rest of Rolex's Professional models.
The proportions of the bracelet have also been revisited, and notably, the centre link has been broadened. In a first for the model, it is equipped with an Oysterlock safety clasp.
The watch’s display has also been refreshed and is now more balanced thanks to the addition of a 0 before the 5 on the minutes scale.
In addition, the new-generation Air-King benefits from an optimized Chromalight display, guaranteeing maximum legibility in dark conditions. The 3, 6 and 9 numerals, which were previously made entirely from 18 ct white gold, are now also visible in the dark.
The new-generation Air-King is equipped with calibre 3230.
Tudor Black Bay Pro
Let's hop over to Rolex's sister brand now… Tudor.
The Tudor Black Pro is an entirely new aesthetic for the Black Bay line up. It has a 39mm diameter, a fixed steel bezel and a Manufacture Calibre with built-in GMT function. And it looks awesome!
The Black Bay Pro is an entirely new model with a dual time zone feature, a technical complication that establishes local time without losing sight of the time in another time zone.
Tudor claims it's compact, robust and sporty, and boasts many unique aesthetic details that celebrate the spirit of the technical watches that Tudor has produced for professionals throughout its history.
Its 24-hour graduated satin-brushed fixed bezel and its yellow 24-hour "Snowflake" hand, Black Bay Pro is powered by the TUDOR Manufacture Calibre MT5652 with built-in GMT function.
Here's a shot of the Tudor Black Bay Pro in the wild – doesn't it look cool?
Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G
Another seriously cool Tudor – this one is giving us Rolex GMT Master Rootbeer vibes.
The desirable Black Bay GMT model is now also available in an S&G (Steel and Gold) version, featuring warm colours and a vintage touch.
Black Bay GMT S&G features a highly functional complication that establishes local time without losing sight of the time in two other time zones. It's instantly recognisable thanks to its 24-hour graduated rotating bezel with two colours, representing day and night, the Black Bay GMT S&G also gives a subtle aesthetic nod to the history of this watchmaking function.
Here is the Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G with three strap options: riveted 316L steel and yellow gold bracelet, aged brown leather or black Jacquard fabric.
TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf Special Edition
Let's move away from the Rolex brands for a bit and looks at something a little different, such as this cool version of the TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf Special Edition.
TAG Heuer reveals a new edition of its iconic TAG Heuer Monaco made with the partner Gulf. The co-creation wears the legendary colours and design of the Gulf brand and is equipped with the in-house movement Heuer 02, a new addition for the Monaco Gulf edition. Eagerly awaited by watch collectors, the new TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf is a special edition timepiece.
Grand Seiko Evolution 9
The Evolution 9 Collection represents the future of Grand Seiko. Based on the Grand Seiko style which has inspired each and every creation since 1967, the Evolution 9 Collection takes the legibility and comfort of Grand Seiko to a new level.
Today, the realm of the Evolution 9 Collection expands with the addition of five new Spring Drive sport watches. Two feature a GMT caliber, two are GMT chronographs and the fifth is a 200m diver’s watch.
The refinements of the Evolution 9 Style are also clear to see; the lugs are wider and the bracelets are more robust and, like the cases, have a low center of gravity to ensure that the watches sit comfortably and securely on the wrist.
The hands are bolder and more clearly differentiated for even greaternlegibility and the numerals on the bezel are of a new font developed especially for the Evolution 9 Collection.
The cases and bracelets are made of high-intensity titanium, which is about 30% lighter than stainless steel and brighter in color.
The hands and indexes are coated with sufficient Lumibrite to further enhance the legibility of the time at night. The crown guard is carefully designed to avoid being caught by sleeves in both sport activities and everyday use.
Rolex Day-Date 40
The Day-Date has always epitomized prestige and luxury – the peak of human achievement. Now, Rolex is releasing the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 in 950 platinum – easily recognizable thanks to its ice blue dial – with a fluted bezel for the first time. Until now the Day Date has only been made in 18 ct gold, now it exists in the most prestigious metal available.
Rolex Datejust 31
Rolex is presenting three new versions of the Datejust 31 with striking floral motif dials. It's designed to evoke wild summer meadows, the design comprises 24 flowers that stand out distinctly from one another thanks to their finishes – either sunray, matt or grained. Each of the flowers is lit from within by a diamond set into the centre.
Rolex Yacht-Master 40
Where the sky meets the ocean and the sun comes up over water, the air is momentarily rippled with colour. The new Yacht-Master 40 is designed to harness these fleeting instants so they can be admired on the wrist. The bezel, set with diamonds and sapphires in tones of blue, silver and pink, is inspired by the aurora borealis and the glow of dawn. The case is made from 18 ct white gold – a first for the model.
Rolex Yacht-Master 42
Finally, from Rolex, we have the Yacht-Master 42. Now available in yellow gold for the first time – this is an inspired and original refinement to the emblematic sailing timepiece.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver
One year after announcing its reimagining of the Aquaracer collection, TAG Heuer is back with an even more extreme and robust edition: the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver.
This new model represents an important milestone for TAG Heuer, as it is the first timepiece from the brand using the calibre TH30-00, produced by Kenissi Manufacture SA.
The new calibre is manufactured exclusively for TAG Heuer and symbolizes the beginning of a new important chapter for the history of the brand. A chapter that will see significant improvements in term of reliability and durability.
As the name suggests, Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver is capable of diving down to 1,000 metres.
The CEO of TAG Heuer, Frédéric Arnault, said:
“TAG Heuer has been developing bold and innovative luxury tool watches for over 40 years, and the Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver is the essence of our unique expertise in this area. This super dive watch joins the entirely reimagined Aquaracer Professional 300 collection launched last year, which now comprises 11 models. We are delighted to launch our latest TAG Heuer Aquaracer at the new edition of Watches and Wonders. It is a watch capable of overcoming all challenges.”
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Orange Diver
A little more pedestrian than the previous TAG dive watch… the Aquaracer Professional 300 core collection is expanding with the Orange Diver, a new watch with a vibrant look that is inspired by the orange diver reference 844, a favorite among collectors. The Orange Diver became iconic because of its vibrant, tangerine-colored dial.
Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G
Another stunning bi-metal release from Tudor – this time in chronograph form.
The Black Bay Chrono S&G is crafted in steel and yellow gold, with a self-winding Manufacture Calibre, featuring a column wheel and vertical clutch.
Like all models in the Black Bay line, the Black Bay Chrono S&G adopts TUDOR’s characteristic angular “Snowflake” hands, which first appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. The result of a subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking.
The Manufacture Calibre MT5813, which powers the Black Bay Chrono S&G model boasts a 70-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring. The MT5813 is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance exceeding the standards set by this independent institute.
It is derived from the Manufacture Calibre Breitling 01 chronograph, with a high-precision regulating organ developed by Tudor and exclusive finishes.
"Tudor has been producing watches that are closely tied to the world of motorsport since the presentation of the Oysterdate in 1970, the brand’s first chronograph. In the same way, since 1954 Tudor has been constantly refining its professional divers' watches. The Black Bay Chrono S&G model combines these traditions in a sport-chic chronograph, with contrasting sub-counters and a high-performance automatic Manufacture Calibre, with column wheel and vertical clutch."
Here's an image of the Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G on the dark brown aged leather bund. It's also available on a riveted 316L steel and yellow gold bracelet or a black Jacquard fabric strap.
Zenith Chronomaster Sport
Another chronograph – this time from Zenith.
This year at Watches & Wonders, Zenith is unveiling the latest additions to the Chronomaster Sport lineup, with new references crafted in precious metals.
Zenith has crafted the Chronomaster Sport entirely in rose gold - including the bracelet and engraved bezel with 1/10th of a second scale. Available with either a black or white dial with the signature El Primero tricolour counters with golden hands and applied markers.
Hermés Arceau Le Temps Voyageur
The Arceau watch designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978 lends itself to a new expression of style and evokes the spirit of travel for Watches and Wonders 2022.
Crafted in platinum and titanium or in steel, its round case with asymmetrical lugs reveals a singular reinterpretation by Hermès of classic Haute Horlogerie complications roaming across the hours of the world.
The “Travelling time” mechanism developed exclusively for Hermès provides a disc-type display of 24 time zones. The satellite gravitates on a fantasy map, imagined by Jérôme Colliard for the “Planisphère d’un monde équestre” silk scarf.
The Arceau Le Temps Voyageur is avaialble in 38mm or 41mm models.
Hermés H08 Blue
Also from Hermés the this stunning blue version of the H08. It features a 39mm cushion-shaped case crafted from PVD-coated titanium. The back is coated with black DLC.
I must say, I don't usualy like blue watches, but there's something about this that is really appealing to me.
TAG Heuer Carrera x Porsche Limited Edition
After a successful first year of collaboration, TAG Heuer and Porsche return to the spotlight for the second chapter of their partnership with an new co-creation: the TAG Heuer Carrera x Porsche, a model with a strong sporty feel.
The TAG Heuer Carrera x Porsche Limited Edition is based on the emblematic TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph with performance to boot thanks to its in-house Calibre Heuer 02.
The movement is manufactured entirely at the TAG Heuer factory in Chevenez, consisting of 168 parts including a column wheel and a vertical clutch. These features allow for an exceptional chronometric performance, such as its impressive power reserve of 80 hours!
In terms of design, the sportiness of the TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph is further enhanced by Porsche’s aesthetic. The yellow colour is incorporated in various elements of this creation, which is inspired by Porsche‘s racing yellow panatone. It can be seen in the Porsche logo on the bezel, as well as on the lacquer in the crown and in the graphic details present in small touches on the dial and on the second hand. The yellow colour is also present in the luminescence of the Super-LumiNova, which lights yellow in the dark.
Here's the inspiration behind the Carrera x Porsche Limited Edition:
TAG Heuer’s CEO Frédéric Arnault said of the new model:
“For this second chapter of our partnership, it seemed natural to continue to weave the thread of our co-creation through the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph but with a completely new approach. For this new limited edition, we wanted to emphasise the racing side of the sporty Porsche Carrera. Our teams, in partnership with Porsche, have combined their expertise and creativity to create a timepiece with a powerful design and a bold, sporty look.”
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton
The tourbillon joins the Overseas collection in a skeletonised version at Watches and Wonders 2022.
The Manufacture Calibre 2160 has been redesigned for the occasion in a contemporary, entirely openworked spirit.
Available in 18K 5N pink gold and Grade 5 titanium (the first Vacheron Constantin model made entirely of this metal) versions complete with integrated bracelets, this watch is accompanied by meticulous attention to the finishing of the movement and case.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Vacheron Constantin has also presented a new signature timepiece combining a platinum case with a salmon-coloured dial. This classically inspired combination is available in limited annual production exclusively from VC boutiques.
This Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with a new face is powered by in-house Calibre 1142 QP, one of the most prestigious chronograph movements enhanced by the perpetual calendar complication and crafted in the purest tradition of Haute Horlogerie.
The movement dates back to the 1940s and is notably distinguished by the sophisticated aesthetics of its architecture as well as by its reliability and precision enhanced by its column-wheel system. This 324-component movement in its perpetual calendar version has been adapted over the decades, particularly to meet Hallmark of Geneva criteria, while its rate frequency has been modified to 3 Hz and its power reserve amounts to 48 hours.
Here are some envious liftstyle images of the new Vacheron Constantin watches:
Rolex discontinued models
If you're wondering what Rolex has discontinued to make way for the new models then you're in luck, as we have a run down below:
- A number of the brightly coloured Oyster Perpetual models have been discontinued. Specifically, the yellow and coral dials are gone completely, while the tiffany blue and pink dials are only avilable on certian sizes. This is sure to make the used prices of those dials sky rocket.
- Of course, the old Air King model has been replaced with the new model.
- The old platinum Day-Date with the domed bezed has also be replaced.
Tudor's Royal collection now includes two new 28mm models both with a gem set bezel and mother of pearl dial. You can choose from either a steel model (pictured above) or Steel and Gold model. This collection is the epitome of versatile and affordable sport-chic.
It's time for lunch. Sadly I'm covering the show from the UK, not Geneva, so to get the full Watches and Wonders experiece I'll be having cheese fondue, raclette and chocolates.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition “Lake Tahoe”
Okay, I'm back from lunch and now I'll be focusing on a collection of stunning watches from IWC.
Starting with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition “Lake Tahoe”. The ceramic colour is inspired by white uniforms and the winter landscape around freshwater Lake Tahoe – a popular training area for naval aviators.
Inside the 44mm ceramic case is the IWC-manufacture 69380 calibre, featuring a classic column-wheel design. The chronograph also features a day and date display at 3 o’clock.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition “Woodland”
If you worry that you wouldn't be able to keep a white watch clean, then how about this dark green model instead?
Inspired by the flight suits of and uniforms of Topgun pilots, as well as the vast forest landscapes whose airspaces these pilots use as a training area.
The colored ceramic results from a sophisticated manufacturing process in which zirconium oxide is mixed with other metallic oxides. Because the color changes during the sintering process, it takes countless trials and a lot of experience to determine the right blend of raw materials.
The monochromatic design is completed by a dark green dial and black hands and printing and luminescent material in a subdued green.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium
This might be the most special release from IWC, as it's made from 'Ceratanium' a ground-breaking material that features the unique advantages of titanium and ceramic.
This patented material is as light and unbreakable as titanium, but at the same time similarly hard and scratch-resistant as ceramic.
It took IWC's material engineers five-year to accomplish this feat, and is created in a sophisticated manufacturing process, that not only gives the components their outstanding material properties but also their matte black, metallic colour.
The chronograph is powered by the IWC-manufactured 69385 movement.
Hublot Square Bang Unico
Hublot has unveiled its own interpretation of the square watch, a, perhaps surprsingly, totally new geometry for the brand.
The new shape actually caused a number of issues for Hublot, first of which is the movement. Since every calibre has the wheel as its basic component, it therefore needs a round movement. This is why most watchmakers hide their movement, to give the illusion of using a shaped movement.
Hublot decided to take a different direction, putting its own, in-house Unico movement on show. The chronograph has a column wheel visible at 6 o’ clock, while its bicompax display dispenses with a dial, to reveal its secret inner workings.
Five 42mm models are available. The first three are in solid titanium, black ceramic or King Gold. The last two blend titanium or King Gold with a black ceramic bezel. Each model comes with a black rubber strap and a folding clasp in the same material as the case.
Ricardo Guadalupe, Hublot CEO said:
"The square watch is a very specific object that most watchmakers dare not tackle. This is a divisive, disruptive, and unconventional shape that no one has known how to rework for decades: it was just waiting for us! Hublot decided to get to grips with the shape in order to explore its power and create a totally unique timepiece. Like any Hublot, the Square Bang Unico has no equivalent!"
Here's a close up shot of that dial:
While we're on the subject of square watches, let's take a look at what Cartier has come out with.
As a tribute to the brand's historical model, the Santos-Dumont collection adds three new versions to its repertoire. The three lacquer watches elevate the style and spirit so dear to the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont.
The new models feature lacquered bezels, stamped dials, are are available in gold, blue and black colourways.
The Tank is an iconic watch with signature parallel brancards, first created in 1917 by Louis Cartier. This year, the Tank Louis Cartier watch brings with it a new radical elegance buoyed by the intensity of the monochrome dials: red, the Maison’s signature colour, and anthracite grey, a shade borrowed from the Cartier watchmaking palette. In addition to this, it has been further refined: from the twelve classic hour marks, just four remain and the rail track is absent.
There's the stunning black dialed Tank Must (pictued above).
Okay, I just wanted to share another image of the Tudor Black Bay Pro becasue it looks so darn cool:
Do you have any favourites from the show so far? Let us know on Twitter, Instagram or Facebook.
Patek Phillipe Calatrava Ref. 5226G
Patek Philippe reinforces the iconic Calatrava collection, in vintage-style, with a new refined case in white gold guilloched with a hobnail pattern or "Clous de Paris" on the entire circumference of the case band.
The stunning charcoal grey vintage-inspired dial features a black-gradient rim, with its slightly grainy texture is reminiscent of antique camera cases.
This new model is powered by the self-winding calibre 26-330 S C equipped with a stop seconds function.
Patek Phillipe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G
For the first time, Patek Philippe has combined its patented Annual Calendar (that requires a manual correction only once a year) and the Travel Time system for the display of a second time zone.
The new self-winding movement, endowed with eight patents, is housed in a totally new Calatrava-type case with "Clous de Paris" guilloched hobnail pattern around its entire flank, emblematic of the Patek Philippe style.
Zenith Chronomaster Open
Another stunning Chronomaster from Zenith, this one featuring a partially open dial to reveal the regulating organ and escapement inside.
Housed in a fairly compact 39.5mm case in steel or rose gold, the new Chronomaster Open revisits the iconic tri-colour dial configuration with a transparent twist. Instead of cutting out the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock entirely, as was the case with the previous generation, the three counter colours are kept thanks to a hesalite crystal element that serves as a readable sub-dial while allowing a view of the silicon star-shaped escape wheel.
Powered by the El Primero 3604 calibre, the newly developed movement is based on the El Primero 3600 1/10th of a second automatic high-frequency calibre, with a more open architecture.
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE290
I've always been a fan of Montblanc's Geosphere collection, and this new model from Watches and Wonders looks to take it to a whole new level.
The movement in the new Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen is purged of oxygen and then sealed to ensure that it will never fog, even on your most extreme adventures. How cool is that?!
It also features a Gratté Boisé Dial, polished titanium case, and a first for the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere line – the inclusion of a chronograph function.
Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400
The new ProPilot X Calibre 400 is designed to inspire joy no matter what angle you come at it from. The dial-side is defined first by its 39mm titanium case, with taut, angular lines of the aviation-inspired form.
The case is satin and sand-blasted, giving the watch its raw, technical look, and complemented by the familiar ProPilot bezel and a muscular, sculpted titanium bracelet.
The launch collection offers a choice of three dial colours: grey, blue and salmon. This is a fresh, expressive palette, chosen to augment the case.
And then there’s the view from the other side – with the titanium case back and open sapphire crystal framing the Oris Calibre 400, the brand's in-house five-day automatic movement.
As with all Calibre 400 Series movements, it’s accurate to -3 to +5 seconds a day and carries an impressive 10-year warranty and 10-year recommended service interval.
Look how cool the Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 looks in lifestyle images:
"The joy of mechanics is knowing how things work. This is what drives us – and our watches"
Panerai Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo
In watchmaking history, the perpetual calendar is among the most challenging high complications. Fashioning a movement able to automatically adjust the day and date of each month while correcting for leap years is one of the markers of true horological mastery. The new Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo is a limited-edition watch available in only 33 pieces, whose purchasers will also be invited on a unique journey to Florence to experience Panerai heritage first-hand.
The automatic movement P.4100 was conceived by the Laboratorio di Idee, and assembled in the Panerai manufacture in Neuchâtel, the movement offers intuitive setting that requires no corrector or tools, permitting adjustments to the day, date, month and year through rotating the crown in either direction.
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire
With the new Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire, the Nyon watchmaker has unveiled an exclusive version of synthetic sapphire, a world first, and a completely new colour in the field of fine watchmaking: translucent purple.
Each new colour is the result of a very subtle alchemy in order to combine a powerful, expressive and precise shade, which is at the same time translucent and perfectly consistent within the mass of a highly-complex case.
When it comes to the movement, Hublot is now able to offer a self-winding tourbillon (the norm being manual tourbillons), with three full days of power reserve (72 hours).
Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic
With this Hublot ceramic, the Big Bang Integral is in its element, bringing 4 new monochrome shades to the collection. Each available in a limited edition of 250 pieces, there are four colourways that represent the elements of Water, Earth and Wood.
Hublot has pushed the boundaries of ceramic, by increasing the hardness and scratch-resistance of this material and enhancing the intensity of its colour while retaining its lightness, making it a delight to wear thanks to its low thermal conductivity and its hypoallergenic quality.
All packed in a 42mm case, ready to take you on a non-stop 72-hour journey tracked by the Unico V2 manufacture movement.
Ricardo Guadalupe, Hublot CEO, says of the new models:
"An integral watch – that's a challenge! It’s also one of the most worn watches... An integral ceramic watch, that's a double challenge and a rarity, a distinctive piece. The bracelet itself is composed of 22 ceramic elements each requiring a special tool, mould and process... The Unico V2 is a manufacture chronograph movement which is built from scratch – there are only a few of these on the market. It offers a 72-hour power reserve, which is also quite rare and its chronometric precision is tried-and-tested... giving all the more rarity and distinction to the piece."
TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma
Okay, this watch is seriously cool and looks like it belongs on the wrist of a James Bond villian.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma features lab-grown diamonds, marking a major milestone in the 160-year company's history and the watch industry at large.
TAG claims, "this technical disruption is a new way of mastering design and the play of light with material, and the versatility of lab-grown diamonds provides unbounded creativity."
The 44mm watchcase is predominantly made of sandblasted anodized aluminum, which results in a perfect complement to the lightness and purity of the Diamant d’Avant-Garde labgrown diamonds set in the case.
The case frames a polycrystalline diamond dial, which covers the H02 Tourbillon Nanograph movement.
“Chemical vapour deposition (CVD) technology, which we refer to as ‘Diamant d’Avant-Garde’ at TAG Heuer, enables us to explore the versatility of carbon in the form of lab-grown diamonds – to create a stunning timepiece where diamonds are used in very unique shapes and textures. Lab-grown diamonds allow us to innovate and experiment with this exceptional material, and this opens up a new realm of possibilities for designers, watchmakers and engineers”, said Edouard Mignon, Chief Innovation Officer, TAG Heuer & LVMH Watches & Jewelry Division.
Tudor 31/36/39/41 S&G
The last of the new Tudor releases at Watches and Wonders is an updated version of the Black Bay with a fixed bezel in steel and gold.
It's available in four different case sizes to suit all tastes, and, importantly, for the first time, comes with manufacture calibres. These calibres usher in a new family of Tudor movements and mean that all of these models are COSC-certified with silicon balance spring.
Don't get me wrong, I like these new bi-metal Black Bay models, but I can't wait for the stainless steel versions which will no doubt follow.
We'll keep this live blog going throughout the night (or day, depending on where you're reading this) so keep checking back for more updates…
Angelus has released the Chronodate as a tribute to its original chronograph model from 1942. The limited-edition watch comes in three finishes: a red gold with a blue dial, a titanium with a white dial and a titanium with a blue dial. Each is available in a series of just 25 models.
The Chronodate is housed in a 42.5mm case and in addition to the two chronographs for seconds and minutes, the date is displayed in an outer ring using a fourth hand with a red arrowhead.
I really like the simple titanium and white model with the subtle red details on the crown, minute chrono and date. It has a certain 60s vibe to it.
Grand Seiko Kodo
Now here's the kind of watch this show is made for. Introducing the Kodo, the first mechanical complication from Grand Seiko. It's a constant-force tourbillon, integrated to create this stunning complication.
Kodo is the Japanese word for heartbeat and this really is a heart stopper. It's a limited edition of 20 and goes on sale in October 2022.
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel
A final one for tonight and it's kinda special. This is the Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel. Available in deep blue, gray and green color palettes, the 44mm Submersible not only looks great it is built with the environment in mind.
It uses eSteel for its construction, which incorporates recycled materials and yet remains as strong and resistant as regular steel. While the two strap options that come with each watch are made from recycled PET and recycled rubber.
It's a stunning timepiece with a sustainable heart. What more could you ask for?
IWC Big Pilot's Watch 43 Top Gun
Okay, we're back and we're kicking off with the IWC Big Pilot's Watch 43 Top Gun.
The Big Pilot’s Watch in black ceramic has been a staple of IWC's Top Gun line since 2012. Now, this classic design is available in an ergonomic 43mm case for the first time.
The Big Pilot's Watch 43 Top Gun features an extremely hard and scratch-resistant case made of black zirconium oxide ceramic, a black dial and black hands, as well as white printing and luminescence.
The case back with the engraving of the Top Gun logo and the crown are made of titanium.
Ticking away inside is the IWC-manufactured 82100 calibre. The high-end automatic movement boasts a Pellaton winding system that has been reinforced with ceramic components and builds up a power reserve of 60 hours.
Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date
Montblanc’s new sports diving watch, the Iced Sea Automatic Date features 300 metres of water resistance, and a striking dial. If you’ve ever looked deep into the heart of a glacier, you’ll understand why the brand calls it “frozen”.
The case back features a 3D relief engraving of an iceberg and a scuba diver exploring the waters below, while the watch also utilises a new interchangeable strap system makes changing straps incredibly easy.
The unique glacier dial is made possible with an age-old technique called gratté-boisé.
Patek Phillipe Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374-300P
Patek Philippe reinterprets the design of the Ref. 5374 Grand Complication with minute repeater and perpetual calendar in a Haute Joaillerie version.
The platinum case and bezel are paved with baguette-cut diamonds. The flange with baguette-cut diamond minute markers and baguette-cut blue sapphire hour markers forms an "amphitheatre" around the blue-lacquered dial.
The self-winding caliber R 27 Q is equipped with "cathedral" gongs emitting a deep, rich sound.
Ulysse Nardin Freak S
The innovative Freak collection has reached a new orbit, with Ulysse Nardin looking to the brightest stars of the cosmos for inspiration.
At first glance, the brand’s pioneering new watch resembles a space vessel with twin reactors, showing off the expertise of an integrated Manufacture.
Ulysse Nardin claims, "it represents the expression of contemporary luxury masterfully manifested in an avant-garde watchmaking design."
Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon
Carrying on with the more 'out-there' designs we've got the Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon.
The Knights of the Round Table features "12 valiant Knights ready to fight gravity" by joining forces with Roger Dubuis' signature complication, the Monotourbillon.
The 12 Knights, each 6mm tall with its own personality and armour, were cast in Pink Gold 750/1000 and crafted individually through micro-sculpture. They sit within translucent purple blocks carved from Murano glass that appear to levitate around the Monotourbillon while the double surfaced flange is carved from a single block of Murano glass too.
To realise this effect, playing with no less than eight layers of décor around the dial was needed; a true marvel considering the limited surface area.
Available in a 45mm Pink Gold 750/1000 case sealed by a notched bezel, the timepiece is completed with an embossed black calf-leather strap.
Here's a close up of that intricate dial:
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Titanium
A. Lange & Söhne has added a titanium model to its popular Odysseus lineup. Titanium weighs about 43-percent less than stainless steel, so this new model should improve upon the already high level of comfort of the Odysseus on the wrist.
The ice-blue dial made of brass features white-gold hands and appliques. The hour and minute hands as well as all hour markers are luminous.
Inside is the L155.1 Datomatc movement that can be admired through the sapphire-crystal caseback. It features a skeletonised and partially black-rhodiumed central rotor with a centrifugal mass in 950 platinum and has a power reserve of 50 hours.
The model is limited to just 250 watches.
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
With this skeleton model announced at Watches and Wonders 2022, the Schaffhausen-based Manufacture has taken a new approach to its cylindrical tourbillon movement, which applies the principles of H. Moser & Cie.'s expertise in this area.
Under a slightly domed sapphire crystal, reflected in the curve of the sub-dial featuring Globolight inserts, the one-minute flying tourbillon equipped with a cylindrical hairspring is especially eye-catching.
Without a doubt, this is a dramatic, sculptural piece, but one that can be worn every day thanks to its balanced proportions and water resistance up to 12 ATM.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph
As well as a watch with artificial diamonds embedded in the case, TAG Heuer has also introduced the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph, a timepiece made for adventure. This new model represents a major milestone for TAG Heuer, as it is the first timepiece from the brand to use the calibre TH50-00 produced by La Joux-Perret.
The movement features an innovative solar module named Solargraph, which uses the sun or artificial light to charge the battery.
The Sun not only powers the movement of the Solargraph, but it also charges the Super-LumiNova elements of the watch. Indeed, the bezel, dial and hands all feature lume, allowing the watch to feature outstanding legibility at nightfall.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin
Twelve years after its launch, Laurent Ferrier is maintaining its momentum with an intense blue version of one of its latest emblematic models, the Classic Origin.
With its Assegai hands, drop-shaped indices, as well as the case’s perfect combination of straight and curved lines and the abundance of exceptional finishes on the movement, this piece truly represents the quintessence of the brand.
The model was initially developed to pay tribute to all the aesthetic codes created by Mr Laurent Ferrier in 2010, the Classic Origin has succeeded in becoming an icon of the LF collection.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar Steel
Jaeger-LeCoultre has added a perpetual calendar to its Polaris line, enriching the collection with one of the most complex complications around. The graduated lacquered blue dial suggests the transition from day to night, reminding the wearer of celestial phenomena and time measurement.
This model was conceived to be practical, the calibre offers 70h of power reserve, and thanks to a new interchangeable strap system, the watch is set for any adventure.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos Infinite
Time for something a little different…
The Atmos almost defies physics, drawing its energy from infinitesimal variations in the ambient air temperature. Its construction is minimalist. With its complete absence of visual distraction, the seamless glass cabinet gives full value to the remarkable Atmos mechanism, which appears to float freely within it.
Montblanc 1858 GMT
The 1858 GMT tracks time zones with a red square positioned next to a fixed black or blue anodised aluminium bezel that shows the 24-hour clock. The beauty of this system is that it indicates both the hours and half-hours.
The 42mm stainless steel case houses a sunray dial in either black or blue, adorned with white luminescent hands and indices. And on the titanium case back, you'll find the world time indication in the form of an engraved world map highlighting key cities in each of the 24 time zones.