“Approach with caution” – 9 pre-owned Rolex watches you should avoid, according to WatchGuys CEO
Rolex expert reveals which pre-owned Rolexes you shouldn’t buy and why
Owning a Rolex is on many watch fans' bucket lists, and for good reason. For many, having a Rolex on your wrist is a symbol of luxury and success, but due to the expense and popularity, they can be hard to get your hands on.
I recently spoke to Robertino Altieri, CEO and Founder of WatchGuys about the secondary Rolex market and which pre-owned Rolex watches you should buy. When asked about which ones you should avoid, Altieri said that while “some models will save you a little money… they are not entirely worth buying.”
Below are nine Rolex pre-owned watches that Altieri recommends avoiding “whether your goal is value or appreciation” as they’re unlikely to climb in value.
Pre-owned Rolex watches you shouldn’t buy
1. Rolex Datejust 278273
The Rolex Datejust is an exceedingly popular timepiece but in the case of the 278273 version, it’s a very small model at just 31mm which has “low potential for appreciation.” Despite being a great everyday piece, Altieri states that “its smaller case size limits its target clientele, and therefore its demand. Adding factory diamonds will further drag down secondary value. While this is a beautiful watch to keep in the family, it's not likely to make you money in the future.”
2. Rolex Datejust 126303
Another Datejust, the Rolex Datejust 126303 is a 41mm two-tone model which is usually quite a hit on the pre-owned market. However, “they are in plentiful supply, so demand for these models is ordinary,” says Altieri. “For that reason, there is little room for appreciation in these models, regardless of the dial colour.”
3. Rolex Datejust 126331
The third Datejust on this list, the 126331 model has a 41mm size with a sundust dial. What makes this watch tricky and a “slow mover on the secondary market”, its size limits its demand from women yet the dial colour and design can be too feminine for most men.
4. Rolex Sky-Dweller 336934 White Dial
Demand is soft for the Rolex Sky-Dweller 336934 despite being technically impressive with its annual calendar, dual time zone and white dial. Where it struggles to hold attention on the second market is the “white dial variant lacks the visual punch of its bright blue and black-dialed counterparts,” says Altieri.
5. Rolex GMT-Master II 126729VTNR "Hornet"
Despite having a very cool name, the white gold version of the GMT-Master II 126729VTNR "Hornet" “carries a steep retail price that the secondary market has not fully embraced”. It’s a beautiful watch with a grey and black bezel and green dial but “the gold weight and premium pricing work against it on resale, and it’s a reference that typically trades below retail without any interest from collectors.
6. Rolex Day-Date 228238
The Day-Date is another popular reference from Rolex but “any Rolex Day-Date 228238 with a standard dial is a hard sell for value on the secondary market, and diamond configurations make it worse.” As an example, Altieri explains that the “40mm yellow gold President carries a heavy retail price driven largely by the gold and any factory stones. On resale, that gold and diamond premium simply does not translate, so buyers routinely take a significant loss… models with common dials are just not as loved by collectors.”
7. Rolex Day-Date 128235
The second Day-Date in this list, the gold value of the 128235 has “pushed its retail price way past its investment potential. The white dial variant especially does not generate the demand needed for this model to appreciate in value over time.”
8. Rolex Daytona 126509
The Rolex Daytona that Altieri recommends avoiding is the white gold Daytona 126509 with a black dial. He dubs it “a great watch with a bad configuration. The blue dial “John Mayer” variation is a popular piece that commands a good premium, but the black dial counterpart is not a fan favourite.”
9. Rolex 1908 ref. 52509
Finally, the Rolex 1908 ref. 52509 with a white dial doesn’t have the usual look of a Rolex which is why many people don’t consider adding it to their collections. “You can save up to $5,000 buying this watch on the secondary market, but it’s a model that is simply not gaining traction in the collecting community.”
