Welcome to T3's live blog for Watches and Wonders 2023!
From 27th March - 2nd April 2023, the Watches and Wonders event will be taking place in Geneva, Switzerland. With 48 exhibiting Maisons showcasing their new novelties and launches, this year's Watches and Wonders is the largest watchmaking gathering to ever take place in Geneva... and we can't wait to see what happens!
For this week, T3 will be bringing you the latest news and releases from Watches and Wonders. Expect to see exciting new creations from the likes of Rolex, Omega, Tudor, Zenith, TAG Heuer, and many more.
If you want to know what's happening at Watches and Wonders, T3 will be staying up-to-date with the events and collect all the new releases right here. Without further ado, these are the best new watches at Watches and Wonders 2023:
Kicking off Watches and Wonders 2023 in the best way is TAG Heuer. To celebrate the 60th anniversary of its TAG Heuer Carrera watch, the brand has launched multiple new Carrera novelties.
First off, we have the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm watch, which is available in blue or black. The new model is inspired by the 'glassbox' design and is powered by the TH20-100 in-house movement. This watch also has a redesigned skeletonised rotor and automatic bi-directional movement.
This launch has been dubbed a 'new chapter' for TAG Heuer and the Carrera Chronograph promises to become a keystone design in the company's collection of contemporary watches.
Not a bad start to Watches and Wonders... and it's not the only launch from TAG Heuer at this event!
Sticking with TAG Heuer, the brand has also launched the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillion, a new addition to its growing Carrera collection.
Similar to the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph, this tourbillion novelty also has a 'glassbox' effect, which allows you to see a tourbillon through an aperture at 6 o'clock. Powered by the in-house TH20-09 tourbillion movement, this watch reflects the beauty of the tourbillon with its subtle curves, dial indexes and sapphire crystal.
Other features on this 42mm watch include a 65-hour power reserve and an eye-catching orange hand and time markings for an extra splash of colour against the glamorous blue of the watch face.
TAG Heuer have really pushed the boat out with its new launches. In addition to its new Chronograph novelties, TAG Heuer has also released the Carrera Date (left), the Aquaracer Professional 200 (centre) and the Carrera Plasma Diamant d'Avant-Garde (right).
The Carrera Date is another all-new version of the original Carrera Date watch, which has been launched in celebration of its 60th anniversary. Powered by the new Calibre 7 Automatic movement and a 56-hour power reserve, the Carrera Date still has its iconic racing-inspired design which it's known for. The watch's proportions have been redesigned for a slimmer and more comfortable style, and it's available in four dial colours, including deep blue, pastel green, bright pink and warm silver.
TAG Heuer has launched new versions in its Aquaracer collection, including the Aquaracer Professional 200. With the new Calibre TH31-00 automatic manufacture movement, the Aquaracer Professional 200 sporty watch is available in 18-karat rose and yellow gold, making it stand out... but not as much as this next release.
Embracing avant-garde technology, TAG Heuer is getting more creative with its Carrera Plasma Diamant d'Avant-Garde. This 44mm watch is powered by the Calibre Heuer 02 Tourbillon Nanograph movement, and features 124 custom-made lab-grown diamonds on the bracelet, aluminum bezel, chronograph case, crown, dial and indexes.
It's only the first day of Watches and Wonders 2023, but TAG Heuer has definitely stolen the show!
The Freak is back!
If you're a fan of Ulysse Nardin, you'll be happy to know that the brand is celebrating its popular Freak watch, with the new Freak ONE. More than two decades have passed since Ulysse Nardin released the first Freak watch, and now the Freak ONE is here, inspired the first Freak but with a fresh new take.
While the Freak ONE is new and improved compared to its predecessor, it still has the original's signature characteristics – no dial, no hands and no crown. The 44mm watch is powered by the automatic caliber UN0240 Manufacture movement, and has a 72-hour power reserve. Featuring a silicon oversized oscillator and hairspring, the flying movement rotates around its own axis to tell the time.
The Freak ONE from Ulysse Nardin has a stylish modern design, thanks to its black DLC-coated titanium and rose gold bezel detailing, and a strap that's made of black textured rubber.
Rolex wows with new Daytona
Rolex has just announced a whole range of new watches at Watches and Wonders, including novelties spread across Rolex’s Daytona, Yacht-Master, Sky-Dweller, GMT-Master, Explorer, Oyster Perpetual and Day-Date collections.
The headline act of Rolex’s new releases is the Cosmograph Daytona, which celebrates its 60th anniversary this year. The watch has a redesigned case and bezel, where the outer edge is finished in the same material as the case but the size remains at 40mm.
The biggest news is that the Daytona (reference number 126500) has a new movement called the calibre 4131 with 72 hours of power reserve. This is a first not just for the Daytona, but for any Rolex sports watch, and means Daytona owners can peer into the movement through the sapphire crystal back.
Want more details? Rolex's new releases are extensive!
Grand Seiko launches first mechanical chronograph
An exciting new novelty from Grand Seiko is the Tentagraph, the first mechanical chronograph from the watchmaker.
The first watch of its kind from Grand Seiko, the Tentagraph is an automatic high-beat chronograph that's powered by the new Caliber 9SC5. This movement uses the Caliber 9SA5 as its base and has an impressive 72-hour power reserve, making the Tentagraph the longest-running 10-beat chronograph currently on the market.
The Tentagraph's design is sporty, modern and has been fully updated for active use and easy reading while on the go or in motion. The bracelet and case are made from high-intensity titanium, making the watch light and more scratch resistant compared to stainless steel. It's a seriously impressive new addition to the Grand Seiko collection of watches.
Patek Phillipe expands its travel watches
Expanding its range of travel watches, Patek Phillipe announces new Calatrava models for 2023.
The new Travel Time model (as seen above) is the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time (Ref. 5224R-001). With a 24-hour display, this watch features a self-winding 31-260 PS FUS 24H caliber with off-center platinum mini-rotor, which is visible through the sapphire case back. Its Travel Time function displays a second time zone and its enhanced with alternating Arabic numerals and hour markers on the navy blue dial.
Other new novelties from Patek Phillipe include a new two-tone version of the Grandmaster Chime and new additions to its ladies collection, like the Ladies' Calatrava, now available in purple and rose gold.
Zenith's new Pilot collection
Announced today at Watches and Wonders is the new generation of ZENITH's Pilot collection. The brand's most long-standing line is getting a refresh with these new novelties, including the Pilot Automatic and the Pilot Big Date Flyback. The all-new collection is steering away from the vintage aesthetic and is instead drawing inspiration from the past and present of aviation.
The Pilot Automatic (pictured) is "the template for the new generation of ZENITH Pilot watches" with its silhouette and new case design with a flat-top round bezel fixed on a rounded case. Rather than an oversized crown, the Pilot Automatic has a more angular modern form and has beautiful aesthetic features that can be seen on the 40mm case.
Both the Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback are available in black ceramic or stainless steel, and have subtle yet striking details that many ZENITH fans are sure to love.
Tudor unveils new Black Bay watches
At Watches and Wonders, Tudor has unveiled a new set of Black Bay watches, including a new burgundy dial for the Black Bay, a new 37mm Black Bay 54, a Black Bay ‘Pepsi’ GMT with an off-white dial, and a set of four new models with Rolex Jubilee-style bracelets and in-house movements.
The new burgundy bezel for Black Bay diving watch is the most eye-catching from the new set, in its 41mm stainless steel case complete with black dial, white snowflake hands and hour markers.
Powered by Tudor’s calibre MT5602-U, the watch is METAS Master Chronometer certified and has a 70-hour power reserve, which is pretty impressive! There's also a choice of three straps, including stainless steel with three- or five-link designs, or black rubber.
Cartier Privé launches the Tank Normale
Cartier Privé reveals the Tank Normale, a rare watch that celebrates the Maison’s mythical models. This new limited edition watch features a 24-hour complication, a skeletonised sun and crescent moon, blued hands and a winding crown cabochon.
Limited to just 50 watches and available in April 2023, the Tank Normale comes in multiple strap and case colourways, including all-yellow gold and platinum versions, and other coloured metals on alligator straps.
Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea novelties
Montblanc has unveiled a set of 1858 novelties, the Iced Sea, for Watches and Wonders 2023.
Inspired by ice, Montblanc's 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date is now available in an all-new grey dial colour, capturing the ice and cold of glacial waters. The watch has a 41mm stainless steel case and the caseback features a 3D engraving of an iceberg and a black scuba diver.
With a focus on making its dive watches the best they can be, Montblanc has made sure the new 1858 Iced Sea editions are shock, magnetic, temperature and water-resistant, and that they're visible in all conditions with its Super-Luminova hands, indexes, dials and dots. The Iced Sea models are also interchangeable, so you can choose between stainless steel bracelets or black rubber straps.
Hublot debuts Square Bang Sapphire watch
In 2022, Hublot unveiled its Square Bang collection, transforming its Big Bang series into square-shaped creations. Now at Watches and Wonders 2023, Hublot has revealed new releases to the Square Bang collection, including the fully transparent Square Bang Sapphire.
The Square Bang Sapphire measures at 41mm, which is slightly smaller than previous Square Bang models. The transparent case is eye-catching but the titanium screws that hold the watch together are clearly visible, for an edgy industrial design. The watch face is incredibly detailed and is completed with a transparent textured rubber strap.
Alongside the Sapphire model of the Square Bang watch, Hublot also has the Square Bang White Ceramic, Square Bang Black Magic and Square Bang Unico models that are available with titanium pave and gold diamonds.
Piaget's cuff watches are weird & wonderful
Ever wanted to mix your jewellery with your watch? Well, Piaget's new high jewellery cuff watches do this for you.
Unveiling three new contemporary watches, Piaget reinterprets the cuff watches and jewellery of the 1960s-70s. Each cuff features beautiful engraved patterns and textures, with a small watch face popping out from the cuff, like a peek-a-boo style.
The three cuff options include a golden bracelet with diamonds and a diamond framed case with white opal dial, a rugged cuff with classic oval dial with turquoise framed by diamonds and a white gold creation with black opal dial and flashing green-blue lights framed by emeralds.
Hautlence Linear Series 2
The Hautlence Linear Series 2 is the newest addition to the Linear collection, and has a new style of movement and design. Dubbed as 'black is the new black', the Linear Series 2 has a stainless steel and full-black PVD-coated case with an integrated black strap. This makes the watch more matte and modern and brings out the kinetic elements of the striking blue hours hand, long arm and tourbillon bridge.
The Linear Series 2 has its signature TV-shaped case that's completed with a sapphire ring on the multi-layered dial , 3D Globolight indexes and a flying tourbillon in the 6 o'clock position. It's a unique-looking shape and its linear retrograde jumping hours make the watch even more exciting and intriguing.
Louis Moinet Time To Race
Louis Moinet has unveiled two unique watches in its TIME TO RACE collection: The SILVER WINNER and the ORANGE PAPAYA.
The SILVER WINNER is a 'tribute to the pioneers' and features iconic colours from motorsport. The new model has a silver tint and red accents, joining the Racing Green, Rosso Corsa and Bleu de France to represent legendary German racing cars.
The ORANGE PAPAYA has a loud pop of colour and is dubbed as 'the captivating inspiration from hypercars'. The bright orange watch has a blue number that recalls speed and performance. Together, the colours demand attention and exude the edgy aesthetic and sportiness of hypercars.
Both of these watches can be personalised to feature the wearer's lucky number and a colour code displayed on the front of the watch. This makes the TIME TO RACE timepieces one-of-a-kind that's made exclusively for each wearer.
Cyrus Geneve Klepcys GMT Palm Green
CYRUS Genève is expanding its KLEPCYS GMT RETROGRADE collection, with two new versions: the Klepcys GMT Ocean Blue and the Klepcys GMT Palm Green.
Both new novelties have a 42mm case, in-house CYR708 automatic calibre, a 55-hour power reserve, dual-time function, Cyrus logo and the movement is visible in the display back. What sets them apart are the new bright colours, the most exciting of which is the Klepcys GMT Palm Green. The rich green colour really shows off the intricacies of the watch face and display, while contrasting nicely with the strap and case.
Both models are available with a new metal bracelet, or a grey or black Cordura strap with a titanium folding clasp.
We can't get enough of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual sets
As Watches and Wonders day one draws to a close, we're still absolutely obsessed with the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual models. Available on the 31mm, 36mm and 41mm cases, the new lacquered dials of the Oyster Perpetual are packed with coloured bubbles that use the OP's famed variety of colours from 2020, including pink, turquoise blue, yellow, red and green, all sat on a turquoise dial.
Before the event, we asked Rolex expert, Danny Shahid at DWS about his predictions and he's surprised and excited by the new Oyster Perpetual novelties. "One of the most controversial discontinuations from Rolex in recent memory has been the removal of the Tiffany blue and coral red Oyster Perpetual 41mm, and now it seems that Rolex has re-introduced the Tiffany blue but with a twist... this one will be popular for sure."
Quite frankly, we're just obsessed with the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches!
Get outdoors with Alpiner Extreme
Alpina is well known for its outdoor and sports watches, and today, the brand unveiled its new additions to the Alpiner collection: the Alpiner Extreme Automatic and Alpiner Extreme Regulator Automatic.
The Alpiner Extreme Automatic has a 41x42.5 mm case with an integrated steel bracelet, available in blue or grey colourways. The watch features three hands, date and is powered by the AL-525 Calibre automatic movement with a 38 hour power reserve.
The Alpiner Extreme Regulator Automatic (available in black or navy blue) is dramatic and striking, with its fun yet unusual way to tell the time. Rather than have the numbers and hands take up all of the dial, the Alpiner Extreme Regulator Automatic has three counters that show the hours at 10 o'clock, the seconds at 6 o'clock and a central hand for the minutes. It may take some people a while to get used to but the design is powerful and sporty.
Ressence pushes the boundaries with the Type 8 S
Ressence is one of the most interesting watchmakers around, thanks to the minimalist design and unique orbital system it uses in its designs. Take the Ressence Type 8 for example, which sees the hour and minute hands each assigned their own dial.
Now for Watches and Wonders, the Ressence Type 8 S has a new sage green colourway that's soft, elegant and versatile. Other than its new muted colour, the Type 8 S us the same as the blue version, featuring a crownless, 42.9 mm titanium case with sapphire crystal, a self-winding mechanical movement and 36 hours of power reserve.
We definitely like the look of this new Ressence timepiece.
And that's a wrap on day one of Watches and Wonders! Today has been full of exciting novelty releases from popular watchmaking manufacturers, like Rolex, Tudor, TAG Heuer, Montblanc, Hublot, Cartier, and many more.
Keep this page bookmarked for more news and updates from Watches and Wonders 2023 throughout this week.
Day 2 of Watches and Wonders 2023
Welcome back to day two of T3's live blog for Watches and Wonders 2023!
Yesterday (day one) was full of exciting novelties from big players in the watchmaking industry, including a Chronograph Daytona from Rolex, exciting Carrera timepieces from TAG Heuer, new additions to the Tudor Black Bay family, and many more from the likes of Montblanc, Hublot, Cartier and Grand Seiko.
For day two of Watches and Wonders, there are many novelties to look at, including reinventing old classics and shifting to a more sustainable future of watchmaking.
Stay tuned for all things Watches and Wonders 2023 day two!
Chopard shifts to sustainable & recycled materials
Luxury watch and jewellery manufacturer, Chopard is expanding its popular Alpine Eagle collection with its new novelty, the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS.
This stunning timepiece is ultra-thin and features a delicately textured Monte Rose Pink dial. The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS has a chic display case back, a small seconds indication and is powered by the L.U.C 96.40-L movement.
The case and bracelet is constructed of a special new alloy by Chopard called A223. The watch is made up of 85% recycled materials, which is a huge shift and focus for the brand.
During the Watches and Wonders Morning Show that aired today, co-president of Chopard, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele stated that Chopard is using sustainable steel in the majority of their watches and timepieces. Rather than wasting any materials during manufacturing, this steel is reused in other pieces, meaning new watches like the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS are made up of 80% recycled materials.
In a conversation with global ambassador of Chopard, Julia Roberts, Scheufele commented that Chopard is aiming to up this to 90% by 2025.
How do I tell the time on the new Hublot?
The question on everyone's lips when looking at the new Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde is... how exactly do I tell the time?! Well, the answer is surprisingly easy, despite the overwhelming but exciting design.
The Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde is a celebration of a tourbillon, which has a double axis in this timepiece. The titanium case is 6mm thinner than its previous generation and it has an impressive 115 hour power reserve which is one of the longest for a double axis tourbillon.
So, how do you tell the time? It's actually a lot simpler than you think, as the retrograde hour and minute hands sweep from left to right, pointing out the time. Just underneath these markers is an additional hand that shows how much power you have on the Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde.
The Beauregard Dahlia is a masterpiece
Beauregard might have just launched the most beautiful watch I've ever seen, in the form of the Dahlia White Gold Fire Opal novelty.
A relatively new collection from Beauregard, the Dahlia was unveiled in 2018 and the newest Dahlia watch is a real masterpiece. The theme of the timepiece revolves around flowers, including a floral centre piece on the dial and an accent on the crown.
The Haute Joaillerie dial is handmade of 48 hand polished petals made from fire opal, giving the piece its vibrant red colour. This watch also features 600 flawless diamonds that are set around the dial and the bezel, and the entire watch is made of white gold.
Other than the glamorous design, the Dahlia White Gold Fire Opal features a central flying tourbillon which is extremely rare in watchmaking. To tell the time on this new Beauregard novelty, you'll need to look into the tourbillon to find the minute and hours. The Dahlia White Gold Fire Opal has a stunning movement that can also be seen through the floral-inspired display back.
IWC Schaffhausen honours legendary designer with new novelty
Another brilliant novelty unveiled at Watches and Wonders is the IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40.
The Ingeniur was introduced in 1955 and during the 1970s, Gerald Genta, watchmaker from Geneva detailed his vision of a stainless steel luxury sports watch with integrated bracelet. Now, IWC Schaffhausen is honouring the designer with the launch of the Ingenieur Automatic 40, bringing the classic design into the modern day.
The Ingenieur Automatic 40 is bigger (40mm case) than the original but still has some of the classic design choices, including the elegant stainless steel bracelet and a patterned dial. The black dial has a 'grid' structure which features small lines offset to each other by 90-degrees, and is completed with rhodium-plated hands and luminescent appliques.
Powered by the in-house 32111 calibre movement, the Ingenieur Automatic 40 has a 120 hour power reserve. This luxury sports watch is also 10-bar water-resistant and the most impressive part is the iron capsule at the back protects the movement against strong magnetic fields.
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.1: All about the movement
Another sustainable masterpiece show today at Watches and Wonders is the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.1. Ferdinand Berthoud is also only making 25 FB 3SPC.1 a year, so it's incredibly exclusive - you'll need to be quick if you want one!
The luxury watch brand, Ferdinand Berthoud, sits under Chopard, which as discussed previously in this live blog, is shifting to more sustainable practices. In the FB 3SPC.1 novelty, the case is made of 18-carat white gold which is ethical, meaning the material adheres to the wellness of the supply chain.
There are many other features that make the FB 3SPC.1 so special, and that include its movement. Looking at the dial, you can see the hour and minute hands, a power reserve indicator situated at 2 o'clock and the seconds counter at 6 o'clock.
At the 9 o'clock mark, the watch is open so you can see the innerworkings. Additionally, the side of the FB 3SPC.1 has a window where you can look in to see the cylindrical hairspring and beautiful movement of the timepiece.
A stunning tourbillon from Frederique Constant
In celebration of its 35 year anniversary, Frederique Constant unveils the Classic Tourbillon Manufacture, marking the occasion by launching a tourbillon.
The Classic Tourbillon Manufacture has a perfectly round 39mm case which is crafted out of 18kt rose gold. Powered by the FC-970 Manufacture Calibre, these innerworkings can be seen through the sapphire case back of the timepiece.
The face of the watch is truly beautiful, with a grey open case dial, applique hour markers and sword-like gold hands with diamond cut edges, that have been redesigned to be narrower and longer.
The star of the show is the tourbillon which sits are 6 o'clock. It rotates beautifully and there's a discreet hand that passes above the tourbillon cage (which is made of 81 components) to mark off the seconds.
With only 150 pieces made per year, the Classic Tourbillon Manufacture is limited edition, and this has been written on both the case and tourbillon cage.
Grand Seiko unveils limited edition hand graved novelty
Yesterday, Grand Seiko announced its new Tentagraph, the first mechanical chronograph from the brand. But this new limited edition watch is pretty awe-inspiring due to its connection to the brand and the work that its artists have gone to, to create its hand engraved design.
The watch you see above is the Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Hand-engraved Manual-winding Spring Drive Limited Edition: SBGZ009. Inspired by white bitch forests that stretch across the Yachiho Plateau at the eastern foot of the Kita-Yatsugatake Mountains, each case has been hand engraved to reflect the natural beauty of the forest.
The silver coloured dial and platinum 550 case gives the watch the look of freshly fallen snow, a metallic texture and a subtle brilliance in all light conditions. With a distortion-free mirror surface, the Hand-engraved Manual-winding Spring Drive Limited Edition: SBGZ009 has a second hand that's tempered in grey and glides smoothly and silently across the dial to reflect natural flow of time.
Powered by the manual winding spring drive calibre 9R02, the movement has been decorated to resemble the bell flower. The entire watch has been designed to capture the traditional Japanese respect for nature which lies at the heart of Grand Seiko, as stated by Akio Naito, President of Seiko Watch Corporation during his Watches and Wonders presentation.