Welcome to T3's live blog for Watches and Wonders 2023!
From 27th March - 2nd April 2023, the Watches and Wonders event will be taking place in Geneva, Switzerland. With 48 exhibiting Maisons showcasing their new novelties and launches, this year's Watches and Wonders is the largest watchmaking gathering to ever take place in Geneva... and we can't wait to see what happens!
For this week, T3 will be bringing you the latest news and releases from Watches and Wonders. Expect to see exciting new creations from the likes of Rolex, Omega, Tudor, Zenith, TAG Heuer, and many more.
If you want to know what's happening at Watches and Wonders, T3 will be staying up-to-date with the events and collect all the new releases right here. Without further ado, these are the best new watches at Watches and Wonders 2023:
Kicking off Watches and Wonders 2023 in the best way is TAG Heuer. To celebrate the 60th anniversary of its TAG Heuer Carrera watch, the brand has launched multiple new Carrera novelties.
First off, we have the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm watch, which is available in blue or black. The new model is inspired by the 'glassbox' design and is powered by the TH20-100 in-house movement. This watch also has a redesigned skeletonised rotor and automatic bi-directional movement.
This launch has been dubbed a 'new chapter' for TAG Heuer and the Carrera Chronograph promises to become a keystone design in the company's collection of contemporary watches.
Not a bad start to Watches and Wonders... and it's not the only launch from TAG Heuer at this event!
Sticking with TAG Heuer, the brand has also launched the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillion, a new addition to its growing Carrera collection.
Similar to the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph, this tourbillion novelty also has a 'glassbox' effect, which allows you to see a tourbillon through an aperture at 6 o'clock. Powered by the in-house TH20-09 tourbillion movement, this watch reflects the beauty of the tourbillon with its subtle curves, dial indexes and sapphire crystal.
Other features on this 42mm watch include a 65-hour power reserve and an eye-catching orange hand and time markings for an extra splash of colour against the glamorous blue of the watch face.
TAG Heuer have really pushed the boat out with its new launches. In addition to its new Chronograph novelties, TAG Heuer has also released the Carrera Date (left), the Aquaracer Professional 200 (centre) and the Carrera Plasma Diamant d'Avant-Garde (right).
The Carrera Date is another all-new version of the original Carrera Date watch, which has been launched in celebration of its 60th anniversary. Powered by the new Calibre 7 Automatic movement and a 56-hour power reserve, the Carrera Date still has its iconic racing-inspired design which it's known for. The watch's proportions have been redesigned for a slimmer and more comfortable style, and it's available in four dial colours, including deep blue, pastel green, bright pink and warm silver.
TAG Heuer has launched new versions in its Aquaracer collection, including the Aquaracer Professional 200. With the new Calibre TH31-00 automatic manufacture movement, the Aquaracer Professional 200 sporty watch is available in 18-karat rose and yellow gold, making it stand out... but not as much as this next release.
Embracing avant-garde technology, TAG Heuer is getting more creative with its Carrera Plasma Diamant d'Avant-Garde. This 44mm watch is powered by the Calibre Heuer 02 Tourbillon Nanograph movement, and features 124 custom-made lab-grown diamonds on the bracelet, aluminum bezel, chronograph case, crown, dial and indexes.
It's only the first day of Watches and Wonders 2023, but TAG Heuer has definitely stolen the show!
The Freak is back!
If you're a fan of Ulysse Nardin, you'll be happy to know that the brand is celebrating its popular Freak watch, with the new Freak ONE. More than two decades have passed since Ulysse Nardin released the first Freak watch, and now the Freak ONE is here, inspired the first Freak but with a fresh new take.
While the Freak ONE is new and improved compared to its predecessor, it still has the original's signature characteristics – no dial, no hands and no crown. The 44mm watch is powered by the automatic caliber UN0240 Manufacture movement, and has a 72-hour power reserve. Featuring a silicon oversized oscillator and hairspring, the flying movement rotates around its own axis to tell the time.
The Freak ONE from Ulysse Nardin has a stylish modern design, thanks to its black DLC-coated titanium and rose gold bezel detailing, and a strap that's made of black textured rubber.
Rolex wows with new Daytona
Rolex has just announced a whole range of new watches at Watches and Wonders, including novelties spread across Rolex’s Daytona, Yacht-Master, Sky-Dweller, GMT-Master, Explorer, Oyster Perpetual and Day-Date collections.
The headline act of Rolex’s new releases is the Cosmograph Daytona, which celebrates its 60th anniversary this year. The watch has a redesigned case and bezel, where the outer edge is finished in the same material as the case but the size remains at 40mm.
The biggest news is that the Daytona (reference number 126500) has a new movement called the calibre 4131 with 72 hours of power reserve. This is a first not just for the Daytona, but for any Rolex sports watch, and means Daytona owners can peer into the movement through the sapphire crystal back.
Want more details? Rolex's new releases are extensive!
Grand Seiko launches first mechanical chronograph
An exciting new novelty from Grand Seiko is the Tentagraph, the first mechanical chronograph from the watchmaker.
The first watch of its kind from Grand Seiko, the Tentagraph is an automatic high-beat chronograph that's powered by the new Caliber 9SC5. This movement uses the Caliber 9SA5 as its base and has an impressive 72-hour power reserve, making the Tentagraph the longest-running 10-beat chronograph currently on the market.
The Tentagraph's design is sporty, modern and has been fully updated for active use and easy reading while on the go or in motion. The bracelet and case are made from high-intensity titanium, making the watch light and more scratch resistant compared to stainless steel. It's a seriously impressive new addition to the Grand Seiko collection of watches.
Patek Phillipe expands its travel watches
Expanding its range of travel watches, Patek Phillipe announces new Calatrava models for 2023.
The new Travel Time model (as seen above) is the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time (Ref. 5224R-001). With a 24-hour display, this watch features a self-winding 31-260 PS FUS 24H caliber with off-center platinum mini-rotor, which is visible through the sapphire case back. Its Travel Time function displays a second time zone and its enhanced with alternating Arabic numerals and hour markers on the navy blue dial.
Other new novelties from Patek Phillipe include a new two-tone version of the Grandmaster Chime and new additions to its ladies collection, like the Ladies' Calatrava, now available in purple and rose gold.
Zenith's new Pilot collection
Announced today at Watches and Wonders is the new generation of ZENITH's Pilot collection. The brand's most long-standing line is getting a refresh with these new novelties, including the Pilot Automatic and the Pilot Big Date Flyback. The all-new collection is steering away from the vintage aesthetic and is instead drawing inspiration from the past and present of aviation.
The Pilot Automatic (pictured) is "the template for the new generation of ZENITH Pilot watches" with its silhouette and new case design with a flat-top round bezel fixed on a rounded case. Rather than an oversized crown, the Pilot Automatic has a more angular modern form and has beautiful aesthetic features that can be seen on the 40mm case.
Both the Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback are available in black ceramic or stainless steel, and have subtle yet striking details that many ZENITH fans are sure to love.
Tudor unveils new Black Bay watches
At Watches and Wonders, Tudor has unveiled a new set of Black Bay watches, including a new burgundy dial for the Black Bay, a new 37mm Black Bay 54, a Black Bay ‘Pepsi’ GMT with an off-white dial, and a set of four new models with Rolex Jubilee-style bracelets and in-house movements.
The new burgundy bezel for Black Bay diving watch is the most eye-catching from the new set, in its 41mm stainless steel case complete with black dial, white snowflake hands and hour markers.
Powered by Tudor’s calibre MT5602-U, the watch is METAS Master Chronometer certified and has a 70-hour power reserve, which is pretty impressive! There's also a choice of three straps, including stainless steel with three- or five-link designs, or black rubber.
Cartier Privé launches the Tank Normale
Cartier Privé reveals the Tank Normale, a rare watch that celebrates the Maison’s mythical models. This new limited edition watch features a 24-hour complication, a skeletonised sun and crescent moon, blued hands and a winding crown cabochon.
Limited to just 50 watches and available in April 2023, the Tank Normale comes in multiple strap and case colourways, including all-yellow gold and platinum versions, and other coloured metals on alligator straps.
Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea novelties
Montblanc has unveiled a set of 1858 novelties, the Iced Sea, for Watches and Wonders 2023.
Inspired by ice, Montblanc's 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date is now available in an all-new grey dial colour, capturing the ice and cold of glacial waters. The watch has a 41mm stainless steel case and the caseback features a 3D engraving of an iceberg and a black scuba diver.
With a focus on making its dive watches the best they can be, Montblanc has made sure the new 1858 Iced Sea editions are shock, magnetic, temperature and water-resistant, and that they're visible in all conditions with its Super-Luminova hands, indexes, dials and dots. The Iced Sea models are also interchangeable, so you can choose between stainless steel bracelets or black rubber straps.
Hublot debuts Square Bang Sapphire watch
In 2022, Hublot unveiled its Square Bang collection, transforming its Big Bang series into square-shaped creations. Now at Watches and Wonders 2023, Hublot has revealed new releases to the Square Bang collection, including the fully transparent Square Bang Sapphire.
The Square Bang Sapphire measures at 41mm, which is slightly smaller than previous Square Bang models. The transparent case is eye-catching but the titanium screws that hold the watch together are clearly visible, for an edgy industrial design. The watch face is incredibly detailed and is completed with a transparent textured rubber strap.
Alongside the Sapphire model of the Square Bang watch, Hublot also has the Square Bang White Ceramic, Square Bang Black Magic and Square Bang Unico models that are available with titanium pave and gold diamonds.
Piaget's cuff watches are weird & wonderful
Ever wanted to mix your jewellery with your watch? Well, Piaget's new high jewellery cuff watches do this for you.
Unveiling three new contemporary watches, Piaget reinterprets the cuff watches and jewellery of the 1960s-70s. Each cuff features beautiful engraved patterns and textures, with a small watch face popping out from the cuff, like a peek-a-boo style.
The three cuff options include a golden bracelet with diamonds and a diamond framed case with white opal dial, a rugged cuff with classic oval dial with turquoise framed by diamonds and a white gold creation with black opal dial and flashing green-blue lights framed by emeralds.
Hautlence Linear Series 2
The Hautlence Linear Series 2 is the newest addition to the Linear collection, and has a new style of movement and design. Dubbed as 'black is the new black', the Linear Series 2 has a stainless steel and full-black PVD-coated case with an integrated black strap. This makes the watch more matte and modern and brings out the kinetic elements of the striking blue hours hand, long arm and tourbillon bridge.
The Linear Series 2 has its signature TV-shaped case that's completed with a sapphire ring on the multi-layered dial , 3D Globolight indexes and a flying tourbillon in the 6 o'clock position. It's a unique-looking shape and its linear retrograde jumping hours make the watch even more exciting and intriguing.
Louis Moinet Time To Race
Louis Moinet has unveiled two unique watches in its TIME TO RACE collection: The SILVER WINNER and the ORANGE PAPAYA.
The SILVER WINNER is a 'tribute to the pioneers' and features iconic colours from motorsport. The new model has a silver tint and red accents, joining the Racing Green, Rosso Corsa and Bleu de France to represent legendary German racing cars.
The ORANGE PAPAYA has a loud pop of colour and is dubbed as 'the captivating inspiration from hypercars'. The bright orange watch has a blue number that recalls speed and performance. Together, the colours demand attention and exude the edgy aesthetic and sportiness of hypercars.
Both of these watches can be personalised to feature the wearer's lucky number and a colour code displayed on the front of the watch. This makes the TIME TO RACE timepieces one-of-a-kind that's made exclusively for each wearer.
Cyrus Geneve Klepcys GMT Palm Green
CYRUS Genève is expanding its KLEPCYS GMT RETROGRADE collection, with two new versions: the Klepcys GMT Ocean Blue and the Klepcys GMT Palm Green.
Both new novelties have a 42mm case, in-house CYR708 automatic calibre, a 55-hour power reserve, dual-time function, Cyrus logo and the movement is visible in the display back. What sets them apart are the new bright colours, the most exciting of which is the Klepcys GMT Palm Green. The rich green colour really shows off the intricacies of the watch face and display, while contrasting nicely with the strap and case.
Both models are available with a new metal bracelet, or a grey or black Cordura strap with a titanium folding clasp.
We can't get enough of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual sets
As Watches and Wonders day one draws to a close, we're still absolutely obsessed with the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual models. Available on the 31mm, 36mm and 41mm cases, the new lacquered dials of the Oyster Perpetual are packed with coloured bubbles that use the OP's famed variety of colours from 2020, including pink, turquoise blue, yellow, red and green, all sat on a turquoise dial.
Before the event, we asked Rolex expert, Danny Shahid at DWS about his predictions and he's surprised and excited by the new Oyster Perpetual novelties. "One of the most controversial discontinuations from Rolex in recent memory has been the removal of the Tiffany blue and coral red Oyster Perpetual 41mm, and now it seems that Rolex has re-introduced the Tiffany blue but with a twist... this one will be popular for sure."
Quite frankly, we're just obsessed with the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches!
Get outdoors with Alpiner Extreme
Alpina is well known for its outdoor and sports watches, and today, the brand unveiled its new additions to the Alpiner collection: the Alpiner Extreme Automatic and Alpiner Extreme Regulator Automatic.
The Alpiner Extreme Automatic has a 41x42.5 mm case with an integrated steel bracelet, available in blue or grey colourways. The watch features three hands, date and is powered by the AL-525 Calibre automatic movement with a 38 hour power reserve.
The Alpiner Extreme Regulator Automatic (available in black or navy blue) is dramatic and striking, with its fun yet unusual way to tell the time. Rather than have the numbers and hands take up all of the dial, the Alpiner Extreme Regulator Automatic has three counters that show the hours at 10 o'clock, the seconds at 6 o'clock and a central hand for the minutes. It may take some people a while to get used to but the design is powerful and sporty.
Ressence pushes the boundaries with the Type 8 S
Ressence is one of the most interesting watchmakers around, thanks to the minimalist design and unique orbital system it uses in its designs. Take the Ressence Type 8 for example, which sees the hour and minute hands each assigned their own dial.
Now for Watches and Wonders, the Ressence Type 8 S has a new sage green colourway that's soft, elegant and versatile. Other than its new muted colour, the Type 8 S us the same as the blue version, featuring a crownless, 42.9 mm titanium case with sapphire crystal, a self-winding mechanical movement and 36 hours of power reserve.
We definitely like the look of this new Ressence timepiece.
And that's a wrap on day one of Watches and Wonders! Today has been full of exciting novelty releases from popular watchmaking manufacturers, like Rolex, Tudor, TAG Heuer, Montblanc, Hublot, Cartier, and many more.
Keep this page bookmarked for more news and updates from Watches and Wonders 2023 throughout this week.
Day 2 of Watches and Wonders 2023
Welcome back to day two of T3's live blog for Watches and Wonders 2023!
Yesterday (day one) was full of exciting novelties from big players in the watchmaking industry, including a Chronograph Daytona from Rolex, exciting Carrera timepieces from TAG Heuer, new additions to the Tudor Black Bay family, and many more from the likes of Montblanc, Hublot, Cartier and Grand Seiko.
For day two of Watches and Wonders, there are many novelties to look at, including reinventing old classics and shifting to a more sustainable future of watchmaking.
Stay tuned for all things Watches and Wonders 2023 day two!
Chopard shifts to sustainable & recycled materials
Luxury watch and jewellery manufacturer, Chopard is expanding its popular Alpine Eagle collection with its new novelty, the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS.
This stunning timepiece is ultra-thin and features a delicately textured Monte Rose Pink dial. The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS has a chic display case back, a small seconds indication and is powered by the L.U.C 96.40-L movement.
The case and bracelet is constructed of a special new alloy by Chopard called A223. The watch is made up of 85% recycled materials, which is a huge shift and focus for the brand.
During the Watches and Wonders Morning Show that aired today, co-president of Chopard, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele stated that Chopard is using sustainable steel in the majority of their watches and timepieces. Rather than wasting any materials during manufacturing, this steel is reused in other pieces, meaning new watches like the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS are made up of 80% recycled materials.
In a conversation with global ambassador of Chopard, Julia Roberts, Scheufele commented that Chopard is aiming to up this to 90% by 2025.
How do I tell the time on the new Hublot?
The question on everyone's lips when looking at the new Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde is... how exactly do I tell the time?! Well, the answer is surprisingly easy, despite the overwhelming but exciting design.
The Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde is a celebration of a tourbillon, which has a double axis in this timepiece. The titanium case is 6mm thinner than its previous generation and it has an impressive 115 hour power reserve which is one of the longest for a double axis tourbillon.
So, how do you tell the time? It's actually a lot simpler than you think, as the retrograde hour and minute hands sweep from left to right, pointing out the time. Just underneath these markers is an additional hand that shows how much power you have on the Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde.
The Beauregard Dahlia is a masterpiece
Beauregard might have just launched the most beautiful watch I've ever seen, in the form of the Dahlia White Gold Fire Opal novelty.
A relatively new collection from Beauregard, the Dahlia was unveiled in 2018 and the newest Dahlia watch is a real masterpiece. The theme of the timepiece revolves around flowers, including a floral centre piece on the dial and an accent on the crown.
The Haute Joaillerie dial is handmade of 48 hand polished petals made from fire opal, giving the piece its vibrant red colour. This watch also features 600 flawless diamonds that are set around the dial and the bezel, and the entire watch is made of white gold.
Other than the glamorous design, the Dahlia White Gold Fire Opal features a central flying tourbillon which is extremely rare in watchmaking. To tell the time on this new Beauregard novelty, you'll need to look into the tourbillon to find the minute and hours. The Dahlia White Gold Fire Opal has a stunning movement that can also be seen through the floral-inspired display back.
IWC Schaffhausen honours legendary designer with new novelty
Another brilliant novelty unveiled at Watches and Wonders is the IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40.
The Ingeniur was introduced in 1955 and during the 1970s, Gerald Genta, watchmaker from Geneva detailed his vision of a stainless steel luxury sports watch with integrated bracelet. Now, IWC Schaffhausen is honouring the designer with the launch of the Ingenieur Automatic 40, bringing the classic design into the modern day.
The Ingenieur Automatic 40 is bigger (40mm case) than the original but still has some of the classic design choices, including the elegant stainless steel bracelet and a patterned dial. The black dial has a 'grid' structure which features small lines offset to each other by 90-degrees, and is completed with rhodium-plated hands and luminescent appliques.
Powered by the in-house 32111 calibre movement, the Ingenieur Automatic 40 has a 120 hour power reserve. This luxury sports watch is also 10-bar water-resistant and the most impressive part is the iron capsule at the back protects the movement against strong magnetic fields.
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.1: All about the movement
Another sustainable masterpiece show today at Watches and Wonders is the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.1. Ferdinand Berthoud is also only making 25 FB 3SPC.1 a year, so it's incredibly exclusive - you'll need to be quick if you want one!
The luxury watch brand, Ferdinand Berthoud, sits under Chopard, which as discussed previously in this live blog, is shifting to more sustainable practices. In the FB 3SPC.1 novelty, the case is made of 18-carat white gold which is ethical, meaning the material adheres to the wellness of the supply chain.
There are many other features that make the FB 3SPC.1 so special, and that include its movement. Looking at the dial, you can see the hour and minute hands, a power reserve indicator situated at 2 o'clock and the seconds counter at 6 o'clock.
At the 9 o'clock mark, the watch is open so you can see the innerworkings. Additionally, the side of the FB 3SPC.1 has a window where you can look in to see the cylindrical hairspring and beautiful movement of the timepiece.
A stunning tourbillon from Frederique Constant
In celebration of its 35 year anniversary, Frederique Constant unveils the Classic Tourbillon Manufacture, marking the occasion by launching a tourbillon.
The Classic Tourbillon Manufacture has a perfectly round 39mm case which is crafted out of 18kt rose gold. Powered by the FC-970 Manufacture Calibre, these innerworkings can be seen through the sapphire case back of the timepiece.
The face of the watch is truly beautiful, with a grey open case dial, applique hour markers and sword-like gold hands with diamond cut edges, that have been redesigned to be narrower and longer.
The star of the show is the tourbillon which sits are 6 o'clock. It rotates beautifully and there's a discreet hand that passes above the tourbillon cage (which is made of 81 components) to mark off the seconds.
With only 150 pieces made per year, the Classic Tourbillon Manufacture is limited edition, and this has been written on both the case and tourbillon cage.
Grand Seiko unveils limited edition hand graved novelty
Yesterday, Grand Seiko announced its new Tentagraph, the first mechanical chronograph from the brand. But this new limited edition watch is pretty awe-inspiring due to its connection to the brand and the work that its artists have gone to, to create its hand engraved design.
The watch you see above is the Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Hand-engraved Manual-winding Spring Drive Limited Edition: SBGZ009. Inspired by white bitch forests that stretch across the Yachiho Plateau at the eastern foot of the Kita-Yatsugatake Mountains, each case has been hand engraved to reflect the natural beauty of the forest.
The silver coloured dial and platinum 550 case gives the watch the look of freshly fallen snow, a metallic texture and a subtle brilliance in all light conditions. With a distortion-free mirror surface, the Hand-engraved Manual-winding Spring Drive Limited Edition: SBGZ009 has a second hand that's tempered in grey and glides smoothly and silently across the dial to reflect natural flow of time.
Powered by the manual winding spring drive calibre 9R02, the movement has been decorated to resemble the bell flower. The entire watch has been designed to capture the traditional Japanese respect for nature which lies at the heart of Grand Seiko, as stated by Akio Naito, President of Seiko Watch Corporation during his Watches and Wonders presentation.
It's hip to be square with Laurent Ferrier
Laurent Ferrier, a luxury watch brand created by founders with a racing passion, has launched its stunning Square Micro-Rotor Evergreen novelty at Watches and wonders.
This modern yet timeless watch is elegant and sophisticated, with its subtle accents. The Square Micro-Rotor Evergreen has a muted green dial with a subtle vertical finish, white gold indexes and the Laurent Ferrier signature hands.
The caseback clearly shows the solid gold micro-rotor, its silicone natural escapement, double impulse and the watch's beautifully executed movement. The square shape is fun and eye-catching, but Laurent Ferrier has also launched the Classic Micro-Rotor Evergreen which has a rounder face and structure.
Tudor Royal gets two new dial variants
When it comes to Tudor, all anyone is talking about are the new additions to the Black Bay family, especially as David Beckham has appeared as a special guest at the Tudor stall at Watches and Wonders. BUT there's another new novelty from Tudor which I want to talk about... and that's the Tudor Royal.
The Tudor Royal range has been around for years but the brand has recently released two exciting dial variants to join the growing collection. Chocolate Brown and Salmon are the two new colourways of the Tudor Royal, and are available in 28mm, 34mm, 38mm and 41mm case sizes.
These two new dial colours are versatile, sporty and exciting to look at. The Salmon colour is more subtle and muted, whereas the Chocolate Brown stands out with its 316L steel and yellow gold accents.
Both watches are powered by the Calibre T601 movement with 38 hours power reserve, an integrated metal bracelet, and a notched or diamond-set bezel. If you're a fan of the Tudor Royal collection, these new additions will definitely catch your eye.
Jewels that tell time with Van Cleef & Arpels
At Watches and Wonders, many experts and spokespeople are giving talks on the exciting new novelties and updates to current watch collections. In one of day two's keynote talks, Nicolas Bos, CEO and President of Van Cleef & Arpels, and Vincent Meylan, journalist specialist in high jewellery, talked about jewels that tell time.
Many jewellery designers and luxury watchmakers collaborate to create glamorous gemstone bracelets with time telling. The perfect example of a brand that makes wearable art that also tells the time is Van Cleef & Arpels, who unveiled its new Ludo novelties this week.
Ludo Secret Watches, like the Ludo Secret Watch with diamonds that you can see pictured, have hidden compartment that reveal the dial. This playfulness means wearers can choose between a bracelet, a watch or a mix of the two, simply by opening or closing the bracelet accents.
The Ludo Secret Watch with diamonds is a spectacular timepiece and the sparkling gemstones hide the dial which is made in guilloché white mother-of-pearl. The Ludo Secret Watch is also available with pink sapphires or mystery set emeralds.
A. Lange & Söhne release first ever self-winding chronograph
A. Lange & Söhne has announced its first ever chronograph featuring a self-winding movement at Watches and Wonders 2023. After 6 years of development, the Odysseus Chronograph is here, and it's a beauty.
The Odysseus Chronograph features the newly developed L156.1 DATOMATIC calibre movement. The chronograph features 516 components and is topped off with a black rhodium rotor. The clever part of the Odysseus Chronograph is its dynamic reset-to-zero function which quickly and easily resets the chrono seconds hand back to zero.
With dual-function buttons, A. Lange & Söhne makes it easy for wearers to update and adjust the Odysseus Chronograph. To change the time, simply pull out the crown or push it in to adjust the date and weekday, which are positioned at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock respectively.
The design of the Odysseus Chronograph is in keeping with the sporty-elegant style that A. Lange & Söhne is known for. The watch case measures 42.5mm, has a thickness of 14.2mm, and the dial is black with red accents.
The Odysseus Chronograph from A. Lange & Söhne is limited to 100 watches.
Angelus brings its doctor's watch into the modern day
In the 1960s, Angelus launched its unique 'doctor's watch', a hand-wound chronograph with a unique dial that could read vital signs that doctors need during patient examinations. Today, Angelus is bringing their classic design into the modern day with its limited edition Angelus Chronographe Médical X Massena LAB.
Like the original, the Angelus Chronographe Médical has a pulsometer and asthmometer, but the display has been given a beautiful upgrade. The pulsometer has green, black or red colour codes that correspond to the severity of the reading, and the asthmometer or respiratory scale is red.
The Angelus Chronographe Médical has a 39mm stainless steel case and is powered by the A5000 calibre movement. The calibre is dedicated to diagnosis, and displays the small seconds at 9 o'clock and only the chronograph seconds hand.
A close look at the Charles Zuber Perfos 42 Steel on Steel
On day two of Watches and Wonder, Charles Zuber introduced the Perfos 42 Steel on Steel with White Dial. This sports watch is elegant, minimalist and luxurious, a poetic masterpiece of Swiss watchmaking.
The white dial is what's makes the Charles Zuber Perfos 42 Steel on Steel so exciting. The watch's dial has 60 reflective embossed triangular indexes that all point towards the hands and branding on the watch. It runs on an automatic calibre that shows the hours, minutes and small seconds.
The Charles Zuber Perfos 42 Steel on Steel has an 8-sided 42mm stainless steel case with integrated bracelet which offsets beautifully with the white dial. It's a truly dazzling piece, that's also available with a black dial.
Zenith DEFY Revival Shadow
The latest addition to Zenith's DEFY Revival collection is the Zenith DEFY Revival Shadow, a modern creation with a vintage silhouette. This new novelty from Zenith harks back to the first version of the DEFY made in 1969, giving a nod to its heritage while adding contemporary accents.
The Zenith DEFY Revival Shadow has a geometric case and ladder bracelet that's been crafted in matte titanium, a first for the brand. The 37mm octagonal titanium case has an integrated strap and a 14 faceted bezel. The matte black dial brings out the geometry and hands of the watch, which gives a retro-futuristic vibe. The face also has luminescent markers, which show off the hours, minutes, seconds and date nicely.
The Zenith DEFY Revival Shadow is sure to be a fan favourite, just like its new Pilot watches.
And that's a wrap on day two of Watches and Wonders! The second day has been full of exciting announcements and has given us a real look behind the scenes. It looks like more sustainable and recycled materials will be coming to the forefront, and many brands are celebrating their heritage with vintage-inspired pieces and updates to its older collections.
Come back here tomorrow for day three of Watches and Wonders, which will focus on women's watches. See you there!
Day 3 of Watches and Wonders 2023
Welcome back to day three of T3's live blog for Watches and Wonders 2023!
The first two days have already showed us incredible new novelties from big name brands in the watchmaking industry, including Rolex, Tudor, TAG Heuer, Zenith, Ressence, Chopard and many more.
Yesterday (day two) was all about vintage-inspired watches and had a strong focus on sustainability. As ambassador of Rolex, Roger Federer showed up to take a look at the Rolex stall and K-Pop star and ambassador of Hublot, Lay Zhang came to visit the Hublot stand. Famous mountaineers also circled around the Montblanc stand to see the new timepieces.
Day three is sure to have many exciting new novelties to look at and we should also be seeing more women's watches today, so stay tuned!
Celebrating 50 years of the Baume & Mercier Riveria
In celebration of 50 years of the original Riviera, Baume & Mercier has released new variations of its iconic watch, the Riviera 10720. All 39mm in size, the new Riviera novelties have a distinctive dodecagonal shape with twelve sides and a case back with sapphire crystal that's secured with four screws.
Powered by the Baumatic manufacture movement, the Riviera is self-winding and has a 5 day power reserve. It also has a daily precision of -4 s/+6 and up to 1500 Gauss of solid resistance against magnetic fields.
Our favourite from the updated Riviera collection is the Riviera M0A10720, which has an opaque smoked dial which features a 5 gilded PVD steel ring in the centre of the case. If you look closely, the dial has a unique wave pattern that alludes to the French Riviera. The case is made of steel and there's a sandblasted titanium bezel to complete the look.
Hermès H08 Chronograph
The Hermès H08 is well known for its distinctive shaping and colourful straps. But as announced at Watches and Wonders, Hermès has added a chronograph to its H08 watch and made the Hermès H08 Chronograph.
This is the first Hermès H08 watch to have the chronograph function and it adds more excitement and movement to the timepiece. With its orange strap and black dial, this watch looks quintessential Hermès and it's wonderfully lightweight and sits comfortably on the wrist.
This sporty chic watch is versatile and practical with its mono-pusher being placed inside the crown, so the case design isn't interrupted. The single pusher controls the start, stop and zero-reset functions of the hands, which have an orange-white colour.
The Hermès H08 Chronograph is made of a high performance material, a carbon fibre composite with graphene powder coating. Hermès has given the cushion-shaped case and bezel different finishes which offers a nice contrast and adds more texture to the watch.
All titanium Hysek Abyss "H"
The Hysek Abyss "H" novelty is all about the material. The entire watch is made of grade 5 titanium, including the self-winding micro-rotor movement... pretty impressive!
With a 41mm diameter, the Hysek Abyss "H" is surprisingly lightweight and the profile has swivel locks so it comfortably hugs the wrist. While the face of the watch is quite simple and open, only showing the hands and markings, the case back shows off the intricacies of the watch's movement.
While the picture above shows you the black dial and titanium strap, the Hysek Abyss "H" also comes in blue, including the dial and adjoining strap.
Oris partners with... Kermit the Frog?!
Is that Kermit the Frog I see on the new Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400?! Why yes, yes it is.
In this new novelty from Oris, the watchmaker collaborates with Disney's The Muppets Kermit the Frog, to make a special edition of the ProPilot X Calibre 400. The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition is a fun, quirky and colourful timepiece that has all the trademark Oris features that you know and love but in a new lime green colourway.
Powered by the Calibre 400 movement, the ProPilot X Kermit Edition has a five-day power reserve and a 39mm steel case. Alongside the bright dial, white time markers and white-black hands, you can very clearly see a mini illustration of Kermit the Frog inside the date window.
I've never been much of a Muppets fan but I'm obsessed with the new Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition watch!
Pixel magic with Chanel
This new novelty from Chanel is a cleverly made timepiece which gives futuristic vibes and a quirky pixelated style. Introducing, the Chanel J12 Cybernetic Watch.
The Chanel J12 Cybernetic Watch has a 38mm case, that's shaped like a staircase on one side but is smooth and round on the other side. The watch is made of two different parts of ceramic, with black ceramic on the left and white ceramic on the right. The black lacquer dial is incredibly chic and has a quirky white pixel motif overlapping on the right side.
The interesting thing about the Chanel J12 Cybernetic Watch is that it's actually made in two parts. The smooth black left side and the sharp white right side are made from two completely different moulds and then they're separately polished and vertically grinded before coming together to make one piece.
Rudis Sylva Harmonious Oscillator
Just looking at the Rudis Sylva Harmonious Oscillator, you can see that it's a real work of art. The face of the watch is mainly taken up with beautiful sparkling decorations, making it a true masterpiece that's fun to look at.
With the patented Harmonious Oscillator movement, the Rudis Sylva Harmonious Oscillator is beautifully balanced and artistic. The actual part of the watch where you read the time is situated in the top half of the dial, and is represented by a moon with lifelike craters. The moon is surrounded by hour markers and the hands tick around it.
Just underneath and slightly overlapped by the moon face is the chronograph. These two time telling accents separate the watch into the sky and sea, with the moon on top and water on the bottom. On the left side of the watch is a lotus flower with a diamond at its centre and the right side has a koi carp.
This artistic watch took hundreds of hours to make, thanks to its intense enameling and engraving. Due to this labour, only one person will get to own it and they'll even finish their watch with the Rudis Sylva designers.
Here come the girls: Antarctique S Sashiko
Since day three is meant to focus more on women's watches, let's take a look at some women's novelties, starting with the Czapek & Cie Antarctique S Sashiko.
Available in baby pink or light blue colourways, the Antarctique S Sashiko pays homage to the geometric lines of Japanese stitching, which can be seen on its textured dial. The 3D stamped pattern is based on a lotus flower and is achieved by repeating and overlapping squares set at 45-degrees to perpendicular.
Depending on how the light hits it, the pink and blue colours can look both dark and light at the same time. Complete with silver hands, bezel and case, the Czapek & Cie Antarctique S Sashiko is both elegant and understated, and buyers can even request that the brand adds diamonds to the cardinal points of the watch.
La Panthère de Cartier
Two new novelties have been added to the popular Panthère Jewellery Watches collection by Cartier.
The iconic panther motif from Cartier is bold, striking and incredibly stylish. Rather than breaking up the panther and the watch like Cartier has done before with other Panthère iterations, the panther head just overlaps the watch face (like it's eating it!), which has a slender hexagon shape and black dial.
On the left, the La Panthère is decked out in sparkling gemstones and has silver hands, whereas the other is in a glamorous gold colour with gold hands. Both have emerald green eyes, angular facial features, and the gold version has black accents dappled around to create the cat's spots. Truly stunning.
All that glitters with Charriol
Who doesn't love a bit of sparkle?! The new novelties from Charriol definitely don't disappoint on the sparkly front, with the new St-Tropez Anniversary Glitter watches.
Inspired by Saint Tropez in summer, Charriol has made four colour variations of the St-Tropez Glitter: steel, yellow gold, rose gold and gemstone studded. Available in 20mm, 25mm or 30mm sizes, the St-Tropez Glitter have simplified dials, just featuring the hands without any time markers. To add a splash of colour and sparkle, the faces are colourful and dusted with shimmering glitter.
The St-Tropez Glitter collection come in stainless steel cases with diamond studded bezels, cable bracelets, and a signature chain hanging from the strap that ties into the colour palette. This gives the St-Tropez Glitter more texture and movement, while making the watches look like high-end jewellery.
Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph
Roger Dubuis has added to its Hyper watches collection, a new novelty called the Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph. This new watch from Roger Dubuis is a truly impressive timepiece, with many new elements, features and materials to talk about.
Starting off with material, the Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph is made of Mineral Composite Fibre (MCF), a new material conceived in-house that's lightweight and makes up the case. The watch also comes in a rare shade of red that's not been used before by the brand.
On to how it works, the Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph has a new tourbillon and rotor system that controls the forces of gravity. The Split-Seconds Chronograph is a double column wheel system and rattrapante in one, that's been enhanced with a bold new rotating minute counter.
Taking a look at the dial, the Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph has a Conical Monovortex Tourbillon at 9 o'clock which has a 360° trajectory that protects the precision of the watch. At 12 o’clock, there's a Turborotor Cylindrical Oscillating Weight that's positioned vertically, so the force of gravity pushes down on the mechanics like a spinning barrel. Super technical and super attractive, too.
Beauregard Lili Candy
Back to the ladies, I couldn't take my eyes off the Beauregard Lili Candy. Available in white and rose gold, the Lili Candy has a candy dial that boasts beautiful colour and shape to the watch face.
The 33mm Lili Candy is incredibly dainty but it packs a punch with the amount of gemstones it has surrounding the watch hands. The 18-karat gold case has a 150 diamond VVS DEF setting and 7 gemstones wrapped around in a spiral. These gemstones include white, fanta and yellow opal, carnelian, chrysoprase, topaz and amethyst, giving this watch all the colours of the rainbow.
Frederique Constant Highlife Ladies Automatic Sparkling
Frederique Constant injects the glamour into its brand-new version of the Highlife Ladies Automatic Sparkling watch.
With a 34mm steel case, the Highlife Ladies Automatic Sparkling has a sky blue dial with glints of stardust around it and the hours are marked off by bejewelled chapter rings. The bezel is equally as sparkly with a host of 60 diamonds, and the indexes and hands are luminescent. The entire watch face is mean to recall the Milky Way and the automatic movement can be seen through the transparent case back.
The Highlife Ladies Automatic Sparkling has interchangeable strap options, so you can choose between the integrated steel strap or cloud-white rubber strap.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-winding Diamond-Set
Vacheron Constantin introduces the Overseas Self-winding Diamond-Set, a novelty with two new models for women.
The Overseas collection from Vacheron Constantin is inspired by travel and the spirit in which elegance is combined with robustness. The Overseas Self-winding Diamond-Set has a 35mm diameter, a refined silhouette and integrated bracelet with V-shaped links.
The two models are available in pink gold with a lacquered blue dial or steel with a rose dial. Both are bezel set with 90 diamonds, waterproof to 150m and have a date marker at 3 o'clock.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph
Jaeger-LeCoultre is paying tribute to its original Reverso with the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph. The Reverso sports watch has a long history dating back to the 1930s, and its swiveling case which was designed for protection during polo matches, has garnered appeal across all sports and other arenas.
The Reverso Tribute Chronograph pays tributes to these roots by holding on to its popular features while also adding a new chronograph. Its Calibre 860 movement unites a chronograph with a double-sided display of the time, and it still has that fun swivel feature.
The watch has a gold-coloured case with black strap and accents, a rectangular dial which shows off the intricacies of the chronograph, and gold hour markers. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph is slender yet striking, and suited to all kinds of watch wearers – sporty or not!
And that's a wrap on day three of Watches and Wonders! This week is going incredibly fast but there are still a few more days to go, meaning there will be more watch news and novelty launches to cover.
The third day has shown us more exciting timepieces and it's had a real focus on women's watches, with beautiful creations from Cartier, Chanel, Antarctique S Sashiko, Charriol, Beauregard, Frederique Constant and Vacheron Constantin, to name a few.
We'll be back tomorrow for day four of Watches and Wonders, which will be all about watch complications. Stay tuned for more!
Day 4 of Watches and Wonders 2023
Welcome back to day four of T3's live blog for Watches and Wonders 2023!
The past three days have championed the intricacies and creativity of watchmaking and today, there are still more novelties to discover. Yesterday (day three) was focused on women's watches, and many exciting guests came to visit the showcase, including Olympic athletes.
Day four is going to be jampacked, giving us a look behind the scenes and focusing on watch complications. Let's go!
Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Gold
Arnold & Son has added a new addition to its Ultrathin Tourbillon collection: the Ultrathin Tourbillon Gold. This beautifully round ultrathin watch has a clear open face and all its features connect to the heritage of Arnold & Son.
The 41.5mm Ultrathin Tourbillon Gold features a 5N red gold and subtle silver opaline dial with a refined mother-of-pearl subdial. Just below the petite yet striking hands and hour markers, there's a flying tourbillon. The tourbillon cage has an anchor and sextant that's used to navigate and steer boats into the harbour. This is a nod to Arnold & Son's quest for accuracy and links to its heritage.
The Ultrathin Tourbillon Gold case back shows the mechanical hand wound movement and has a 100 hour power reserve. It also has an engraved yellow gold bridge which has the same pattern as found in Arnold & Son pocket watches.
Arnold & Son has only made 88 pieces of the Ultrathin Tourbillon Gold, making it incredibly exclusive.
U-Boat Italo Fontana Capsule T5 BK BE
Seven years after the first launch of the Capsule, U-BOAT Italo Fontana introduces its new Capsule T5 BK BE. The design of the Capsule T5 BK BE has a steampunk aesthetic and has many features inspired by submarines.
Starting with the watch face, the Capsule T5 BK BE has a thick domed sapphire crystal which acts as magnifying glass to amplify the view of the dial. The black dial has indexes and numbers treated in beige SuperLuminova. The face also has a date and day/night indicators, and there's a patent for the crown release system sat at the 10 o'clock position.
The Capsule T5 BK BE is 50mm and has a grade 5 titanium case. It's powered by a Sellita SW200 automatic caliber which beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 41 hour power reserve. This limited edition watch has 90 pieces only.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante
Parmigiani Fleurier launched the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante in 2022 as a world first, renewing the genre of the horological complication. The watchmaker has brought the iconic timepiece back this year as the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante in a new 18ct rose gold version.
The Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante has a Milano blue dial with a finely barleycorn guilloché pattern. The watch face appears simple at first but beneath it, there's a complication powering two superimposed hours hands, in rhodium-plated gold and rose gold.
The case back shows off the intricate movement of the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante. With a focus on different times and calendars, Parmigiani Fleurier has given the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante a 7 o'clock pusher that when pressed, makes the rose gold hand perform a one-hour jump, so the rhodium-plated gold hand displays home time.
Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Obsidian
The new novelty from Piaget, the Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Obsidian is a glamorous celebration of astronomy and the beauty of the night sky.
At 42mm, the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Obsidian has a 8.65mm thinness, making it surprisingly lightweight given its size. The main event of the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Obsidian is the dial and bezel decorations, which is a Piaget signature. The cushion shaped dial has a white gold case and the round bezel is adorned with deep blue sapphires set in dark claws. The lower part of the dial also has a moon phase.
The watch face has one of watchmaking's most historical and emblematic complications, a perpetual calendar. The case back shows off a rotor coloured in blue and the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Obsidian is limited to just 18 pieces.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone Monobalancier
This new novelty from Roger Dubuis, the Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone Monobalancier glows in the dark!
Yes, you read that right. The Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone Monobalancier has a bezel, flange and star that feature uniquely shaped lab grown spinels named Spin-Stones. These gems range in colour from red to blue and are coated with SuperLumiNova to make them shine during the day, night and under UV light.
The Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone Monobalancier from Roger Dubuis has a 42mm case in gold, and an impressive self-winding micro rotor calibre movement. A running theme for Watches and Wonders day four is that the featured novelties are limited, including the Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone Monobalancier which has only 28 pieces available.
Trilobe Une Folle Journée Diamant
A year after the launch of the Une Folle Journée collection, Trilobe releases new novelties to join the collection. The Une Folle Journée Diamant from Trilobe is a luminous and innovative piece that's a combination of time telling and high jewellery.
The three rotating rings of the Une Folle Journée Diamant is inspired by the ceiling of the Paris Opera house. Adorned with exceptional diamonds whose secret setting is invisible to the naked eye, the Une Folle Journée Diamant is available in platnium or rose gold casings, and comes with a sophisticated black or brown leather strap.
Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans
Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans is inspired by the sky, flying and escape, which gives this novelty a fun movement and design.
The blue dial features three-dimensional horizontal waves and polished indexes, with a dark blue small second counter in the top right corner at the 1:30 o'clock mark. The 40.3mm case is made of stainless steel and has an integrated steel bracelet.
The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans has front and back sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating. Powered by the in-house Calibre SMA03-T automatic movement with fully integrated micro-rotor, this timepiece has a 52 hour power reserve. The bridges are hand-finished and made up of 144 components and 31 jewels.
Another limited edition watch from day four of Watches and Wonders, there are 60 pieces of the Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans.
Chronoswiss Delphis Oracle
Chronoswiss is celebrating its 40th birthday with a revival of its iconic Delphis. The Chronoswiss Delphis Oracle is a true masterpiece... and I can't stop looking at it!
The Chronoswiss Delphis Oracle features jumping hours and retrograde minutes on its unique curved Guilloché dial with fire enamel. The 42mm case is made in 18ct gold and is water-resistant to 100m.
Powered by the manufacture caliber C.6004, the Chronoswiss Delphis Oracle is the first timepiece to feature this newly developed movement. Keeping with the exclusive theme of day four, the Chronoswiss Delphis Oracle is limited to 50 pieces.
Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull Bronze
For those who like dark and quirky designs, meet the Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull Bronze. This new novelty from Bell & Ross is daring and striking, plus the watchmaker has given the skull exciting accents.
On the dial is the bronze skull that fills the entire frame. The 45mm watch has hours and minute hands filled with Super-LuminNova, and the crystal is sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Bell & Ross developed the BR-CAL.210 calibre movement which is a 100% manufacturer mechanism. The manual winding activates an automaton part, where when you turn the crown, the jaw of the skull opens and looks like it's laughing. The BR 01 Cyber Skull Bronze is a limited edition of 500 pieces.
Pequignet Royale Saphir Dawn White
The Royale Saphir Dawn White from Pequignet highlights the three counters of the triple jump date of the Calibre Royal. This timepiece is the first and only French-made mechanism that integrates these watchmaking complications on the same plate, making this a unique and impressive novelty.
The main features of the Royale Saphir Dawn White is its open-work dial. The dial has monochrome contrasts and transparency contained in a rounded 42mm case. It highlights the date mechanism with triple instant jump for days, units and discs. The dial also shows off the date and a power reserve indicator (88 hours to be exact) sits opposite the small seconds.
Pequignet has made different colourways of the Royale Saphir, including the Dawn White, Eclipse White, Shade Grey, Black Parhelion and Night Black.
Cyrus Geneve Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon
Looking for something sporty? Then you'll love the Cyrus Geneve Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon!
This unique timepiece features a rare complication of two monopusher chronographs, aka DICE. DICE stands for Double Independent Chronograph Evolution and is the first of its kind in the world, capable of measuring two-time intervals independently or in synchronicity. The Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon is powered by the in-house manufacture automatic calibre CYR718 and has a power reserve of 55 hours.
The Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon has a 42mm case that's crafted from grade 5 titanium. Combined with a luminescent carbon fibre bezel, the novelty has a functional double crown at 3 and 9 o'clock, and both time-intervals can be read at a glance with its two-tone colour scheme.
Available with a titanium bracelet or a green Cordura strap, the Cyrus Geneve Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon has 50 pieces of each strap type.
And that's a wrap on day four of Watches and Wonders! We're coming close to the end of the week but there are still many novelties coming to the forefront, showing off their intricate designs and mechanics.
Today has been all about watch complications, and we've seen some incredible timepieces from the likes of Arnold & Son, Parmigiani Fleurier, Chronoswiss, Piaget, Speake-Marin, Trilobe and many more.
For day five of Watches and Wonders, the watchmakers will focus on sports watches, so come back tomorrow for the latest news and releases!
Day 5 of Watches and Wonders 2023
Welcome back to day five of T3's live blog for Watches and Wonders 2023!
This week has been packed full of exciting novelties from Rolex, Tudor, TAG Heuer, Montblanc, Oris, Zenith, Chopard and many more. The past few days have revolved around themes like ladies watches, watch complications and sustainable materials.
Today for day five, the timepieces on display will mainly be sports watches, and we're excited to see what's in store. Stay tuned!